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Today I managed to mix latex do support my latest set of Montral. They look really great, got a lovely curve. But the weather has turned which means I have to leave them alone for several days again or I risk collapsting the latex against itself. If it was super hot it would be very easy to avoid bumping into them for a short period of time.


But I have nearly got the hilts sanded back, so I need to pick up some Rub n Buff as the only way to finish these- metal paint just is not going to allow for the fine detail to show.


But I thought I’d share a theory.


 


At the end of The Clone Wars Ahsoka leaves the Jedi. She also gains respect for Ventress who basically helps her more than anyone in clearing her name. Ventress used curved hilts.including when she helped Ahskoka, in fact they are recognised even in some darkness.


In Canon Ventress owns the only curved hilts- aside from Dooku whom of course Ventress was apprenticed too.


I won’t spoil Ventress’s arc but suffice to say I can’t help but think she had a lasting impact on Ahsoka who by this time was rethinking what it means to be good, what it means to be loyal.


The curved shape cannot just be a coincidence. Even if it’s not a straight up homage it has to be part of her thinking.


Lightsabers are a reflection of the Jedi who wield them and as Ahsoka no longer thinks of herself as Jedi. So she uses all her learning to create them. The crystals are from a sith after all. She reuses them after removing all trace of the sith, but also without leaving any trace of Jedi training.


 


 


To say I’m invested in an Ahsoka who has learned her life is not what it was and has gained a lot of insight, even to know her limits is a bit of an understatement. I am very nervous about her fate in Rebels, I’d quite liked to have had her remain where we last saw her. We know others manage to hide from the force for decades. I am okay with that.

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I’ve had to put a limit on this, and today my not be the ideal day- weird inflammation along top of radius- but I do need to put a pin in this! So I have some nice weight card to work with and will set up my netbook with some media and just start and see when I stop.


There may be a bit of experimenting going on.

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I’ve had my first infusion, not feeling terribly great but that’s because it is doing what it is supposed to. So I feel flu-y. Time for some more paracetamol and a rest.


So I can’t really use too many “spoons” outside of healing. Tomorrow I’ll rehem Elsa (horsehair braid really does help the hem kick out.) Friday is my nerve conduction test (really scared I’ll wind up sick in the room. Not great with needles any more.)


So I’ll have to wait til after that for Ahsoka. Luckily she isn’t a heavy project. Just frustrating.

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I started by preparing the joins I created in the model. This allows the hilt to have the printlines as horizontal as possible and allow for very secure joins.



I sanded the extended end smooth and to remove the excess. I used a knife to tidy the recesses sections of the other end



Once these fitted well I used acetione and a tiny bit of ABS to weld the ends together. Pressure was needed for some



Once each hilt was assembled I was able to start sanding.



Much more sanding later I was then able to use a mix of acetone, silver pigment and clear abs filament dissolved together. This acts as filler and paint. But as it’s applied y hand and uses the solvent that will dissolver the plastic entirely it’s a process of applying, sanding back, applying thinner coat, and so on.


 



I used copper pigment for the copper pieces.


This was the antique silver. I have been using regular silver in subsequent passes. The difference can be seen below right.


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Instagram importer isn’t working all the time, so I’m trying to backtrack a bit.


I’ve been doing slow work on hilts and montral. The hilts will likely end up with a layer of rub nbuff as I can’t get my pigments to work with my air brush.


But the tunic and mitts are going well.


To make the little windows in the mitts I used a stretch fusible on the inside layer. This is so that all the stabilising stiches are on the inside.



What this means though is I had to turn the upper edge inΒ  and overcast it to shape. I then turned the seam inside out and used my finger nail to press the seams flat and machined them. I worked as far in from the underside as possible then from the other end. And finally stabilised the seam allowance on the inside layer.



The tunic has been refitted and an extension added to hold the tunic in place. This will snap just forward of the seat And I have taken the neck in at the back so it swoops around to the back of the neck.



Here the mitts are inside out. I will overlock all these seams as soon as possible. Today I need to hem my Elsa cape πŸ™‚

today

Nov. 2nd, 2017 07:46 pm
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I have decided on a Rococo theme for my birthday as an excuse to wear my Marie Antoinette Rocket Gown because a picnic in a pretty garden sounds perfect πŸ™‚ So I need all the undergarments and I also need to test the pattern for the swag drapes πŸ™‚


To do this I’m finally starting to use a stash of about 14 metres of of a shot freen and white mystery fabric. The colour it looks in warm light wis qtute silvery and in cool like quite dull aqua. It handles like cotton but feels like a bast fibre. So it may well be a mix. But it is totally perfect for a 2m wide petticoat and ruffles that I need for this frock!


So I’ll grab photos as I promised to share how I make my tubular wonder skirts (they can be used for paniers, a bell shaped rin, and even a bustle!


It’s very simple but a really good stable πŸ™‚


These will need to be twice the size I normally make them of course..


And I also have glue to see if I can also do some more work on Ahsoka.



And then see about how to cut this lace into strips of a good size. So first, to the printer! I need a reference image or two if I’m going to work on this away from my comp πŸ™‚


 


I figured I should work on projects where I already have materials for a bit πŸ™‚ Also I do need to make a modern-ish set of stays to be able to wear the frock. And that will mean boning past the waist and controlled on the hips. So probably a gored hip with a bit of bust shaping given this is the shape of the original.


Β 


So basically this. Which is from the film πŸ™‚ I know the plain piece on the lower back is acting more like a plackard but I’m going to make mine in two pieces, waist through control and a skirt of padded tabs to tack on. It gives me a lot of room to wear this under the Wilting Flower costume for instance and maybe even a Glinda if I decide to go that route again with my epic amount of bubble fabric.


So ideally ballet pink.

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Thank goodness! I took the day to redo the montral and front lekku for a nice clean line. It’s worked which is nice πŸ™‚ I was thinking about taking a break from the costume because of them but I think it’s going to work out.


But yay. It’s also inspiring me to work on other scifi type gear πŸ™‚


Including Maleficent πŸ™‚ I’ll need to work with her under better lighting to get a good scan- the ends keep being missed in the IR camera. I may be able to heat up some paler clay to see if that helps.Ditto putting lines on. I’ll see how I go today and tomorrow. But latexing is my main task for the next few days. I say days as the weather is not yet warm enough to cure quickly so I have to cure smart. So no putting the stand outside where it can blow over (had that) and where I can’t prod at it make the support collapse (done that!).


Hmm I may need to quickly put some extra support underneath. Fingers crossed.


Yes. I also need to get some pigment into a container to mix into her colour too. BTW her pantone swatches do not match the final result, so it’s going to be interesting!

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I had left the hilts and greeblies looking good πŸ™‚ But then… today as I was arranging all the parts on a stand in plate… well I found that I needed to cut one hilt section in half, and also find an emitter end cap.



But this is how it all looks now so it should be good πŸ™‚ Okay I know it’s good as I error checked and used Cura πŸ™‚


 




If you look closely I’m printing at draft quality because I don’t really want to have my printer going for a week. I just don’t trust power/machine combos atmΒ ever πŸ™‚


But it’s really not that bad as I can just sand and acetone wash as planned. So it shouldn’t be extra effort to save a little filament and a lot of time πŸ™‚


 


It looks like I only have photos of the previous sets of hilts over here. Yes. I had to rebuild my hilts from scratch as bending the hilts slightly early lead to something being off by about 1mm over the whole length. I managed to do so in a much shorter time frame but… it was still a lot of work. So to find the hilts still needed work today… ugh.


But, yes, all in parts.



I believe this is actually of my final set πŸ™‚ The emitter got lost so I have put it back in the file here (with all the pieces nested) and in the file at the top (all parts in areas about the size of the plate of my printer) and are in the three files for each print job.


I used LIPID object exporter plugin for Sketchup and opened them in Cura to make sure they were all aligned correctly.


I do really enjoy this. Well most of it. Once the order is sorted and I don’t have to work in the air as such.


 

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Β 


My Take A Breather costume- A remake of my Jem dress πŸ™‚ The belt and shoes were still fine but I also have a glorious new wig. So it needs a really glam dress.


And Ahsoka belt and bracers. I now have the belt wet forming on a dressform.



The horns separated in temperature change, the plastic went up and the clay went down. This necessitated getting the horns able to be worked on more easily and able to be tidied away.



Take the seat off a stool and replace it with the sculpting surface. Perfect height for sitting at πŸ™‚



My back lekku is a little short and the front sit too close so I also had to change how I worked with her.



So I put my old head cast on a dress form. Her neck is so short because I was aligning bust and chin. My shoulders sit much lower and my neck is rather long. This may help exlpain how much work I need to do on patterns to fit them! And why dress forms are rarely helpful.



This is a waratah. It is not supposed to be a standard (long skinny trunk and ball shaped top.) But that is what we have. Also the bottle brush at the back is not a single tree but is doing what the waratah was supposed to.



Finally some of the ducks are back. This one taps on my door for food. And then goes to the other end of the drive to the house to ask for more.

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My Ahsoka lekku did not cure as well as needed. So I’m going to see if I can tidy the belt template and start tooling leather.

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But I am nearly back to where I was. I decided that I was too annoyed by the short back lekku to be happy. Side track to making a new stand for sculpting and I now have wiggly lekku- one attached two on the floor.


 


And so much mess.


 


So much.


 


But the back lekku has a layer of latex, there is latex grouting on the new montral seams (actually an older cast that was still in pieces) and I also templated a headband for her.

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Well I have divided the hilts into reasonable lengths and created supports so now… now I hope I can just make a curve and use the plugin. Hopefully. I am exhausted.

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The site will default to your WP login but if you aren’t logged in you can use FB, or Twitter at the very least. Β Woo!



After using the shape bender I used hidden geometry to work out why the end looked blunt and then added lines.


And then used Solid Inspector2 to check for errors. It actually fixed some things that were meant to repair, but not my edges which I did expect.



And then I found trying to slice through horizontally just did not work. The model is perfectly horizontal but as soon as I intersect faces it doesn’t. So lots of short pieces like for Ventress πŸ™‚ I know that worked so this should work too πŸ™‚


I started making fairly the overlaps to help join those pieces once printed but I’m not so I like them, so I’ll spend a little more time today on making ring supports instead.


Each hilt is more than 10 pieces. This is to better reflect the different materials (copper, silver, black) Also to allow the same print to be used as non functional and functional by having some separate blade holders able to be used simply as support, the end cap being functional with the D ring holder and screw. I kept getting errors using the bolt making plugin so I’d rather just not use that atm. It should work at a larger scale but I did find scaling could be unpredictable with curves,


These also have to be arranged in correct alignment for printing. which I will do once the connecting sections are added.


 


I find this quite painful and painfully slow work. A lot has had to be drawn by hand even after using tools and plugins. For example the supports I’m making can’t be just extruded as they connect into pieces on a different angle. So I have to copy from one piece and add to the first and then measure and draw to size. Luckily 5mm seems to work well so I can at least be fairly consistent with that πŸ™‚


It’s seriously fiddly work, lots of copy paste and drawing on the inside and outside

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I’ve done this before, so thought I’d capture it for posterity πŸ˜‰



I printed the concept art at full scale. What is helpful with these is the flat back. SO we can use the profile as the very first piece to cut.


Β 


This is then taped perpendicularly to card that will form the back. Once the frame is taped then it’s time to try for shaping the back. This is done by eye which can be a bit off.



To create the sides tape the frame to paper and cut radiating strips out. These offer something for tape to adhere to.


Β 


Then these are cut apart and transfered to card for more careful shaping. Keeping the profile shape helps keep this stable as well.



Once taped to the form it is possible to see where shaping needs to happed. As this is a template it’s possible to only alter one side.


Here only the left has been altered.



The top seam also can be adjusted. And the entire pice taken off the form.


I have used a similar method previously for my Ahsara Zavros ensemble:


http://www.arrayedindreams.com/2015/01/14/1756854/



I used sheer pantihose to smooth the foam. Urethane foam is lovely and squishy but is fragile. The material also allows minimal seepage of latex into the foam to help keep them fairly soft.


Latex shrinks as it cures to the thinner the layer the better.


This is also how I make all my Twi’lek lekku- skinned foam Β πŸ™‚ It takes patience. latex cures very fast in thin layers.


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This is where I left her Montral. The lekku are the next on the agenda.


Β 


I have a cunning plan, but I have managed to move and misplace or actually corretly store so many costume elements this year that I am not sure where all my lekku making materials are.


Sadly probably no pictures while I actually do the work. Latex all over the place and latex cures super fast when in thin layers so it’s easy to lift finger prints or grab fibres from anything if I am not careful πŸ™‚ But it’ll be much the same way I worked on all my lekku.


So that is the plan for tomorrow- work out the lekku proportions and start marking the montral for seamlines with the lekku- I hope to hide the seam in the paint.

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As in the so called definition of madness. Yes I spent a lot of time yesterday trying to do something expecting it to work. In part because the tutortial I used did not really make full use of SKUs component and group features.


I want to make my hilt fool proof for printing and so I’m dividing them up into shorter sections to print only so high- they are hollow so too tall and there is the risk they will skew. This has to do with Z axis (though my machine has a steel frame- less of an issue unless there is a flaw) and cooling/heating issues. I have a heated plate so that is good.


Anyway. to make a slice. Make a square on the green axis make it a component. And then you can merrily place it through your model and it won’t move anything. Then select everything, explode curves, and intersect selection. Then you have the slices in place.


But keep them all as separate pieces before then.



On the right is me using the guide and this shape stretched some interior planes. No idea why. But I didn’t notice until I have all my hilts divided and ready for adding internal support for snapping the pieces together.


So….. I know now. I have had practice now and it means I should., should, be able to do the last tidying of proportions today.


I have been working to the limits of the resolution my printer can manage (apparently 100microns, 0.1mm) but I need to test my machine. PLA at 0.2mm is a bit chunky. I have seen how fine 0.1mm looks on the standard owl model but I don’t know it if was PLA or ABS.


I now have 1.75mm ABS so can test the machine again. And at 0.1mm


I want to make it easier so I’m trying to round all my measurements to full mm so that’s what I’m doing today. Except for anything to do with the emitter. Though I guess I do now know how to cut through a little more easily…


Oh man. What took a couple of days to get “mostly done” for a solid print is taking ages because I want a fancy one that can hold a blade.

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I sometimes think I should try and capture the fun times of working with SKU on screen record. And with mic on so you can hear the sears. They get a creative. Though the f’bomb is usually muttered. and the s’bomb gets stretched out to sheee-er-gerrr.


I saw my PC space with other so it means trying for levity in the stress.


So lots of what the foo, whyyyyyyy? *push keyboard away* Β but whhh-hy-hhy-hy-hy-hy???


Never the less she persisted! Yes I went there. It’s basically the mantra of my life. And there will be a post!



I started with the original images, Note, this is a screenshot, it really is that blurry to work with. I wanted to do a line art originally but used a photocopy in hand and on screen just scaled to hight.


I actually then started a new model with the hilts cropped to height to make it muuuuch easier. And yes, when you import images you need to scale them once in as well. Unless there is a keyboard trick… there probably is.


 


then I made a series of guides and then drew curves and loved it. Until I realised yes, the sides are totally rounded, I did say the images are fuzzy!



So, Viola! (that was a pun.) New guides new scaled image and new face made the same way. From here I extruded a series of tubes leaving the inside empty. It worked really well for Asajj. But I am making mie a touch simple in the joins this time.



Guides guides everywhere!!!!! This was to create the inset grip of the longer hilt. Basically pecil and extrude and some maths!


And yep the decorations are in place. But I wound up having to move them on my longer hilt. That was just a bit frustrating.



Then came the other pieces; inset switches, what i think are peg/screws to hold the end caps in place, the long end cap holder, and the large button. Finally the emitter caps!


The large button. I goofed and wound up with the circle not centred so yesterday was a day of fixing issues like this. I placed everything together (they are all separate components so they will print separately and in whatever orientation works best. I also adjusted length and made the end cap holders fit smoothly to let them pass so we can gain acccess to the insides to put electronics inside.



Here you can see I had yet to place the end caps. But the are there not. I also got the emitters to their final shapes and sizes. One emitter needs some smoothing but aside from that I think I’m happy.


So today with the emitters lined up correctly it’s time to get the pencil out and start cutting.! Had a few practices but it’s not really been perfectly even as I didn’t have then perfectly on my guides.

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#ahsokalives hilts with nearly all the little buttons. I also cleaned out the inside of each piece, tidying up guidelines or removing interior lines and planes.



So to make the D ring holder actually fit I have to be very careful about the curves. I see they sort of curve there in the line art but it is a bit much to try to do right now. Also I need to make the emmitter and make sure that fits in the end of the sabers. They are different to each other too.


I need to rest my ribs again. It’s also quite cold so a bit of warmth from the blanket will be good too πŸ™‚

That'll do

Aug. 8th, 2017 06:40 am
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It would be so nice if there was a super easy way to scale in SKU! It really should be as simple as selecting all, choosing scale and typing in the measurement- but there is a trick to clicking and unclicking and holding the mouse while typing(?) and so I am amazed I managed it. But scaling up by 1000% means I can do half mm in my print.


It is essentially an architectural tool so I get why it is much more sensible to have started at this size. Anyway.



Not bad for a single day where I had a big rest in the middle! My ribs are still sore, and my muscles in my forearms are sore (the shortened bones in my hand mean the tendons and muscles are overworked all the way to my elbows.)


So there are little greeblie details to add but I genuinely have to stop typing in 3,2,….

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I’ve been using the @starwarsrebelsΒ supplied concept images of Ahsoka and found I’m only a tiny bit shorter than her, which sort of balances out if I wear orthotics in the boots, which is sensible, and can potentially just pad a little more between me and the headpiece.


(edit, this was supposed to be posted before my last post but well.. I mistake the “add tags” and “publish” buttons!)


So I decided I will scale to the appropriate height of her vs me as it won’t be so far off as to look like I’m carrying oversized versions.


But I want to eventually put a blade in. But even with a little rounding up to account for the blurring of the lines when scaled I wind up with a 20mm thickness. My Shaak Ti and Talon blades are 20mm. I find it mimics the OT and SWR style well while the 25mm (1″) blades often used really mimic the prequels and TCW.


What this means is I would want at least 24mm thickness. This is because there is an inset piece that should be at least 1mm. That gives me 1mm thickness around the blade- a bit close but my ventress hilts are that thin in places. And I could also cut a piece of the same acrylic tubing to support vertically on the belts. Or I could just accept that I can’t have both? Though I did just scale the fronts to match as if I was going for 22mm thickness and that is not so bad. So maybe I could do that.



This has a 3mm thickness and is at the to scale size. Now to see what I can do with a 2mm thickness.

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