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I’m still working through my files, so here is another of my favourite Mantua. A deep blue silk covered in silver embroidery.









Right now I don’t have access to the printed materials so I’m mostly inspired by the over all effect, and as my lace has a very uneven but scalloped hem I’m using this to help with what to do with it. I wish I had noticed the hem protection earlier as I am going to want that, and I can do that by machine. If the machine work is over in my lace I’m going to reserve my hand sewing for where it will have impact.

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Finally, I’ve started to get back to projects. I really need something with no rules, and makes use of two very pretty but modern fabrics, a shot blue taffeta and a heavy fully sequined lace. It was very hard to decide between my two designs. My few rules are it does stick to historic cut, and to use up all of both fabrics. 4m of the lace, I think it was 9m of the blue.









Deciding to go all in on an early Mantua by pinning my lace the full width? Wow.









Now that is a statement, but just how much of my lace should I use? There are 6 rows, the skirt has a 3m hem.





I think I can use the Welsh Mantua as I can use as much lace as possible on the petticoat and ignore the “train” which will help me make the most use of the fabric- 4 rows on the underskirt, leave 2 rows for robings. https://museum.wales/collections/online/object/e2ce99c3-462b-3da3-af0a-953e4f94008d/Dress/footer/









I started adding all of my references but I think I should do that over a few posts so I can focus on each properly.

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ELSA BLOGGING, LAST POST OF THE DAY


by admin, December 22, 2014






The book is Elements of Modern Dressmaking. It’s on Gutenburg and I am pretty sure I posted the huge section on bodice linings on my blog (search for sateen 🙂 )


Mina and the beaded chiffon make an appearance. Best viewed in 720 or 1080 resolution to actually see anything I’m rabbiting on about.


 


If you spot the fluffy balls of yarn and guessed Pink Diamonds was on the re-do list you’d be right 🙂 I need to treat the yarn in a way to make it a bit more able to stand out than it is currently, I got to see how heavy the original is. No way I’m sewing anything as heavy if not heavier!


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ELSA LENSES WIG LIPGLOSS!


by admin, December 4, 2014









2 COMMENTS














    • KRISTEN

      REPLY


    • December 5, 2014




    that is a great wig!
















    • MEILIN

      REPLY


    • December 5, 2014




    Looks great! 🙂









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ELSA LIVEBLOGGING 2


by admin, December 22, 2014





Whoops ahead of myself, first pic was finding where I left off 🙂

Now thread emerges out of skirt layer one sequin width to the left, pick up bodice fabric one sequin to the right. The natural twist and resistance of the thread means this is not a messy as it sounds.

Gutermann quilting cotton colour 6217.


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ELSA LIVEBLOGGING 1


by admin, December 22, 2014





Seam guide in dark blue sewing from the top with a locking stitch to pull and lay the two layers together.


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ELSA LIVEBLOGGING 5ISH


by admin, December 22, 2014





Unpicking the fabric guides. Dark blue stitching line, pale blue to hold the skirt shell to the edge of the bodice lining.

Pins have to old everything! So I’ll do this section by section.


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Elsa liveblogging 7 I think




Seems to work for tumblr otherwise sorry, I’ll edit the code later. Going a bit dizzy with the sparkle.

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ELSA OMBRE DYED!


by admin, December 26, 2014





Obnoxious Bart Mode enabled. I need a pan for a hat and one for a drum to shout “I am the greatest, everybody loves me, I am the greatest” because I freaking ombre dyed fully sequinned fabric and I so deserve it!

Recipe is equal parts Kelley Green and Turquoise but in a very dilute bath and a bare skant amount of colour enhancer.

But baby that is ombre dyed and while the hem and bodice are very different, it’s very hard to find where they merge.


Booyah!


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ELSA TESTING, BODICE POINT


by admin, December 11, 2014





Yep, have to hike it up a little each hip. The skirt position is good i just need to baste the waistline higher- you may be able to see the dark stitch line.




2 COMMENTS














    • MUTIVE

      REPLY


    • December 12, 2014




    Oh, wow. That is looking phenomenal. (And I love all the glitter.)
















      • ADMIN

        REPLY


      • December 22, 2014




      Thank you 🙂 it has just a nice amount of shine with the tulle 🙂 Very Galinda=ish 🙂 Now that i s a costume I wish I was able to hand bead. I started but had to give up. The first scatter of sequins on the smalest petal seized up my wrist. And it’s the kid of seizing that is double bad in RA.











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ELSA LIVEBLOGGING FOR THE NEW YEAR!


by admin, December 31, 2014




I managed to start working with latex again for others but I’ve had a Bellini so now it’s my own work 🙂

Starting with…. Bodysuit snaps!



This will be interesting….


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ELSA LIVEBLOGGING WHATEVER


by admin, December 22, 2014





My posts are a bit backlogged due to file size- updated WordPress and that setting seemed to change.

Anyway. Back to original plan. Pinning the shell layers and removing the stitching guide.

The shell layers are stretchier than the lining which is why I wanted to use it to hold the layers in place, but three or four layers of sequins is too much bulk at the waist seam.


ELSA REDO

Mar. 16th, 2017 07:09 am
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ELSA REDO


by admin, December 7, 2014




Not totally! But with the repeated delay in being able to handle wearing a costume I have undone some of the work I already did. Now I can implement my plans for the bodice and sleeves and all the rest 🙂 So I’ll be taking the shell bodice off and getting photos of the very well supported inner piece (with bust enhancers and every thing).


Right now though it feels like a norovirus mixed with flu, so totally not feeling any desire to get dressed in anything other than singlet and yoga pants right now! Probably won’t until well in to the new year unfortunately. It does mean the antibodies are working- they knock out a specific set of B cells so not only is there a reduction of protection against certain bugs but also that current attack is leading to massive cell death which means lots of nasty waste making me feel sick without being sick.. or maybe.. anyway.


Time for some paracetamol, metamide, and an ice pack for my head.


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ELSA SLOW GOING 🙂


by admin, December 10, 2014




I have taken the bodice shell off and so have repinned the skirt ready for some tacking stitches down the vertical seams and the hems. So far I have zig zagged the hems with an inch gap. This is to allow me to turn them in and hand stitch in place. I’ll o a ladder stitchthen another stay stitch an inch above. I need to try the bodice on again but I can’t face the spanx nor the weight of the dress right now. I should be able to at least sew the bodice in places and so be able to clip the extra skirt length off the top. Also with the inflamation in my gut but also the um.. lack of solid food for a week I am really not the shape I was a few days ago even so I do not want to fit right now either.


The bodice shell has been taken in properly ready for the seam allowance to be clipped off and the edges flipped open and tacked to each side. Tiny seam allowances tiny tiny to avoid bulk.


I also got a pattern made of the bodice shell 🙂 It’ll be accurate for the tulle but I’ll also grab the mock up to get the pattern for a plain fabric.


I also cut an extra layer for the shirt, so that’s being repinned and reshaped- the second layer will go underbust and is used to stabilise the body. I want the neckline and sleeves to be sheer and soft.


The bust enhancer is lovely in the bodice. I’ll do a page on them later. Basically small busts are not easier to deal with for self supporting bodices, they just require different engineering 😉 So my bodice support lining looks feather light except for the padding! At least, I should say not easier when you are trying to achieve a specific look.


So, still a bit to go but I can do a seam a day if need be :0 FAR FAR AWAY BIRTHDAY!!!! WOOOOT!!!!


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FIRST TEST PATTERN OF SEQUIN OVERLAY


by admin, December 8, 2014





I’ll need to tint a few more of the paler ones a touch darker so i can have a more gradual change. Will follow this pattern of overlay though, and then overlap from top to bust point as well. I do need to stabilise the net, i was going to omit the extra net layer but i think for ease of embroidery i’ll want some. So i’ll get some wash away stabiliser.

Meanwhile i get to make this sequin and net bodice layer lie as flat and stable as possible. So i undid a fair bit from this week. Sigh.


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NO MORE LIVEBLOGGING


by admin, December 31, 2014




It is 2 hours until 2015 .


 


Anyway.


Elsa raglan sleeve shape is basted on one side, Eddie Izzard is still on tv, okay our collection, and I really am now going to bed. Tested the dress, got a goood metal zip to tint but it is strong and brilliant.


But sleep.


 


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SNAP SNAP SNAP


by admin, December 31, 2014




Basically I need to test the bodice and it is easiest as a bodysuit so I don’t over stretch the neckline.


 



Next side! I also nee to take the leg seams in a bit- will overlock and bind at the same time.


elsa :)

Mar. 16th, 2017 03:38 am
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ELSA 🙂


by admin, January 5, 2015





Cape will be replaced, the shirt screen printed (sequins rat up the plait!!!!) And I am kicking myself I didn’t put horsehair braid along the top edge like I wanted. The colours are fairly true though 🙂 My dress is baby blue in one direction, turquoise in another and the cape is a very true turquoise. Definitely using my experience with the


I’ll also definitely need to put in an elastic stay at the waist- the bodice slips down due to several factors- none of which I want to alter too much.


But so many children just randomly made happy, or shy, or both!



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ELSA CAPE DYE SUCCESS!


by admin, January 30, 2015


 





Confession, the old colour looked way too deep in shadow so I removed the colour. But the fabric went a blotchy silver with a few blue patches. So to the shame pile it went.

I finally used a tiny tiny tiny amount of turquoise iDye poly on the dress (to brighten the hem mainly) and that went well so I topped up with enough blue to dye the cape and basically use the turquoise and green (released from the hem) to knock the purple out of the dye.

Voila! The wind also kicked up beautifully.

Just never ask me to iron crystalline tulle ever again. Ever.

Ever.


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