For obvious reasons I’m finding it very hard to concentrate on anything and the pressure of unfinished projects has woken me up a few times this week so I have redirected my focus and I’m really excited about adding to collective knowledge.

My pattern book is heavily dependent on multiple factors. The first is to piece together information from tailors manuals. The second is to add into that extant garments. The third is to match each of these to art by region and date to find the direction of influences. And the fourth is to test my theories for places were there is no physical record.

I’ve just found a great source, but I think I want to subscribe to a publisher to be able to translate parts. And they also publish a few other articles I really want access to so I need to create a list and that means working through my bookmarks etc.

But it’s been very useful.

I have some of my extrapolated work supported, so that’s pretty fantastic.

I promised a list of the books on garment cutting brought in already for the workshops Auckland Libraries (Waitakere Central Library Henderson)

These are some of my favourites

Guide to dressmaking

by J. Henry Symonds, , 1876

https://archive.org/details/guidetodressmaki00symo

(full illustratiosn for stitches and trimmings)

The science and geometry of dress

by Mrs. Louisa L. Jackson, 1876

https://archive.org/details/sciencegeometryo02jack

Ladies’ cutting made easy

Thomas Hiram Holding,1885

https://books.google.co.nz/books/about/Ladies_cutting_made_easy.html?id=GC8BAAAAQAAJ&redir_esc=y

(lots of variations on dresses very clear illustrations, diagrams take a bit of care)

A Concise Treatise on Ladies and Misses’ Tight-fitting Garments:

by M. Kaempfer, 1886 (Moschcowitz Brothers)

https://books.google.co.nz/books/about/A_Concise_Treatise_on_Ladies_and_Misses.html?id=Tqimbul_qxkC&redir_esc=y

(This is mostly of the Princess Dress style- this iwll be covered in the bodice workshop as they rely on a good bodice foundation)

Directions for cutting garments with the Davis improved square

by Myra A. Davis, 1888

https://archive.org/details/directionsforcut00davi

The national garment cutter book of diagrams.

by Goldsberry & Doran, 1888

https://archive.org/details/nationalgarment00gold

(Chock full of very easy to follow diagrams- these look modern!)

Instruction on Leola M. Head’s self teaching system of cutting ..

by Leola M. Head, 1889

https://archive.org/details/instructiononleo00head

Instruction book of Bisbee’s American tailor system of dress cutting

by F.S. Bisbee,1895

https://archive.org/details/instructionbooko00bisb

Casneau’s guide for artistic dress cutting and making

by Mrs. Alice A. Casneau, 1895

https://archive.org/details/casneausguidefor00casn

Very long book with photogravure polates of the garment in progress. It makes it very simple to understand the various engraved diagrams.)

The Kintzel dress cutting system, 1896

by A. G. Kintzel,1896

https://archive.org/details/kintzeldresscutt00kint

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1911190.html

Maurice’s system of dress cutting..

by Sivarz, Maurice. [from old catalog]

Published 1889

Publisher [n.p.]

Pages 28

Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language English

Call number 6267213

Digitizing sponsor The Library of Congress

Book contributor The Library of Congress

Collection library_of_congress; americana

Notes There are no page numbers listed

Full catalog record MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

This one has a ball taille, and yes, there is a single seam at the front bodice! This is what I had been noticing in garments so it’s nice to have it confirmed.

Tags: historic guides

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1897169.html

Studies in plain needlework and amateur dressmaking ..

by Ross, Harry A., Mrs. [from old catalog]

Published 1887

Topics Sewing, Dressmaking

Publisher Battle Creek, Mich., W. C. Gage & son, printers

Pages 56

Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language English

Call number 9622452

Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation

Book contributor The Library of Congress

Collection library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

Tags: historic guides

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1896947.html

Instructions in dressmaking, basting and fitting

by [Moschocowitz brothers, New York] [from old catalog]

Published 1884

Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog]

Publisher [New York

Pages 40

Possible copyright status The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language English

Call number 8222341

Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation

Book contributor The Library of Congress

Collection library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

Sadly only a single image of line art is included

Tags: historic guides

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1896624.html

Many more fashion plates in context! Some of these have made their way into cosutme history books.

Of interest to me is how much pink there was in the 1870s! So much. It’s quite… fashion doll pink in plates but I have some paintings where it’s much softer 🙂

I have linked to the about pages in each case, click the book cover then the thumbnails icon to be able to see at a glance how much information there really is! Some of these came with pattern suppliments, it’s a pity these have simply been scanned to show that they exist but from experience of scanning my own magazines they are on webarchive) it is a big ask as it is!

Le Moniteur de la mode: journal du grand monde ; modes, illustrations, patrons, littératures, beaux-arts, théatres.

1874

Revue de la mode: gazette de la famille, Volume 1

1870

Les Modes parisiennes:

1872&1

Journal de Demoiselles

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=kBxfAAAAcAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1874

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=HE5iAAAAcAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1875

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=r1gEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Magasin+Des+Demoiselles.&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1878

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=yVkEAAAAYAAJ&dq=Magasin%20Des%20Demoiselles.&source=gbs_similarbooks

1881

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=x_wGAAAAYAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1883

https://books.google.co.nz/books?id=71gEAAAAYAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s

1884

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1894845.html

The Tailor and Cutter and London Art Journal: An Index of Cutting, Fashion and Trade, 1890

Another tailoring book, but totally packed with diagrams of fantastic quality.

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1879355.html

The Weekly record of fashion, 1882

Beautiful plates.

The Monthly record of fashion, volume 7 1883

The Monthly record of fashion, volume 8 1883

The Monthly record of fashion, volume 9 1884

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1878852.html

Cutting Out and Dressmaking, 1879

And yet another drafting manual being slightly old fashioned.

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1878683.html

The Art of Dressmaking, 1895

What a clever and distinct publication! The garments are photographed and are clearly scale miniatures.

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1878477.html

The Complete Dressmaker for the Million, 1875

Once again very old fashioned shapes for the era.

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1878041.html

A Concise Treatise on Ladies and Misses’ Tight-fitting Garments, 1886

And the tradition of drafting books appearing several years older than pattern sketches.

However this is great as this book deals with basically natural form shapes!

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1877853.html

The World of fashion and continental feuilletons (1879-1880)

I have seen this in Patterns of Fashion 2 for years so it’s nice to be able to put it in context!

There is also a skirt pattern that shows the top and tailing cutting layout but also the curved upper section for fitting over the hips!

And this section is repeated a few times, handy for those who were collecting the magazines by month!

Plate 178 has a style I love, the self trimmed gown, the vertical folds at the neck.

Maybe I can do this with my princesse petticoat? It would make it so very much more useful!

There are other columes online too!

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1877381.html

Sylvia’s Home Journal, 1879

The full pattern is not available, but it is interesting to see the difference in how ready made patterns are drawn at this time compared to how drafting blocks are drawn.

Drafting blocks are generally still very heavily 1860s in shape whiles these pattern sketches tend to show the very long line of the era.

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1876763.html

How to dress well on a shilling a day: a ladies’guide to home dressmaking and millinery.

Highly recommended for the text as it describes the order of sewing and how to. That paragraph on the “bulgarian fold” is really amazing! At least for coming out and stating that the “peacock” style train is impossible to self arrange! Which is something I have trying to get across when getting photos of my gowns with trains- they need a wrangler to look good!

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1876719.html

November 1, 2014 admin

Streiff’s system of garment cutting (1913)

Author: Streiff, Eugene Lawrence, 1866- [from old catalog]

Subject: Tailoring

Publisher: Detroit, Mich. [Printed by A. W. Brookes]

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 10107813

Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record: MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

Male and female garments, shorter with more direct patterns with less text on fitting.

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1868058.html

November 1, 2014 admin

Home dressmaking; (1913)

Author: Ford, Jane. Mrs. [from old catalog]

Subject: Dressmaking

Publisher: New York, Cupples & Leon company

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 9639199

Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record: MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

Another in between but the illustrations are very clear- not a drafting system but how to alter patterns and also a handy guide on how to adjust a corset and making your own bust form (hint making a fitted lining and put over a standard form- hen pad to fit. Good instructions on stay tapes to prevent stretch.)

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1867981.html

by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014

The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker (1894)

Author: Davis, Jeanette E; Holahan, Cora M., ed

Subject: Dressmaking

Publisher: New York, The Cassell publishing co

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 10088784

Digitizing sponsor: The Library of Congress

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record: MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

It’s in pdf now!!!!! OMG!!!! i LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOVE this book. I use the pattern diagram for my Victorian bodices and it talks about things totally not thought of. Like how to smooth the layers of the bodice from under the side of the bust to over, and then pin the fronts to shape. This is because the lining won’t stretch as much as say a wool shell and this makes the fabrics work together.

It also talks about feather boning which is actually made from feather quills!

by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014

A word about perfect systems of cutting, which will do

away with any necessity for trying-on, may not be out of place:

every dressmaker hopes to find one, and learns system after

system in the vain endeavour. If such a thing were possible,

tailors would have discovered it before this ; the costliness

of the material they work upon, and the difficulty of making

alterations upon firm cloth, as compared with soft dress

materials, would ensure their straining every nerve to master

knowledge so very desirable and essential ; and the really

marvellous fitting without trying-on which is done by many

dressmakers as well as tailors would seem to declare that the

knowledge has been mastered ; but those same tailors and

dressmakers know that the risk of alteration being required

has always to be faced, in spite of careful measuring, of

a pattern bodice at hand to compare with, and of the most

minute care having been taken with every step of the work

from first to last. It is well for less experienced workers to

be very careful and painstaking, and not to expect too much

from the cutting only. Perfect cutting must be followed by

perfect making-up if everything is to be perfect throughout,

and such perfection cannot be ensured as a matter of course

to every worker, be she clever and experienced or altogether

otherwise, simply by the cutting-out.

The book is really stuffed full of information, and really is my go to for late 19thC bodices.

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1867522.html

by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014

Home dressmaking; a complete guide to household sewing (1892)

Author: Myers, Annie E

Subject: Dressmaking

Publisher: Chicago, C.H. Sergel & company

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 7748833

Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record: MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

Full of how to’s for construction, including how to use gathers and

When there is a great deal of material to gather into

a small compass, the gathering stitch has to be discarded,

the intervals between the stitches being too

wide to sew across. Then the material is evenly

pleated up and sewed as pleated to the belt, shown in

the uncompleted portion. The advantage of this gathering

over real pleats is that the gathered pleats are

upright, and the material below hangs freely, while

pleats are sewed flatly into the belt and confine the

material more.

pg. 38

Narry a comment about these being cartridge pleats at all. Because they aren’t, if anthing hanging pleats would be more accurate.

Cutting diagrams included.

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1867301.html

November 1, 2014 admin

Instruction book for the standard tailor system .. (1896)

Author: Evan, H. P., co., Chicago. [from old catalog]

Subject: Dressmaking; Garment cutting. [from old catalog]

Publisher: Chicago, Ill., H. P. Evan co.

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 5881277

Digitizing sponsor: The Library of Congress

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congress; americana

Full catalog record: MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

Another pattrn book- more patterns less detail on how to make them. But a lovely range of patterns for the family (no tailoring.)

Crossposts: http://pinkdiamond.livejournal.com/1866834.html

Frock Chick

Sewing Fool

refocus

garment cutting for workshops