inspired

I am pretty sharttered from efforts from Thursday through Sunday. I was going to spend some time today working on #AhsokaLives but might instead just keep warm in the lounge.

I spent much of the weekend getting paper resources in order.  Prints/photocopies and even books. Though some books are still in the I have no clue how to actually store these things phase.

Keeping a few photocopies of patterns I own in book form so that I can keep them in my new inspirations folders. These are yellow.

I’m trying to decide how best to present them in said folders. But I am also trying to find a balance between projects I absolutely want to do and those I probably won’t do. 

The problem is that the images are all different sizes and different quantities. I have several early mantua patterns but only two photos for instance.

Ao I may just put in some old school hand drawn images.

Which remindes me… some of those very old references were tracings on tissue paper. I was on a super tight budget back in the day and yes, even photocopying was expensive- mainly they were books not within my own borrowing system- they were local but they also were not available via interlibrary loan. So when the councils merged I was one very happy book borrower!

So that is for today. 

But also I do need to get my notes on how to use my pattern book up and going.

And part of that is to get my new website section up and working. 

|| The Modular Frock ||

Original garment cutting systems to generate multiple pieces from a few patterns.

These systems grew from a desire to not only create historically accurate garments but to understand the methods of each era. 

These systems are created directly from extant tailors manuals and cutting guides. Each system is unique to the era and uses the same proportions and uses of fabrics as used in the sources. 

|| eyn frauen frock ||

A

Manual of the Method of

Cutting Clothing

A novel and practical method of measures and markings

Dealing with all that concern the tailor in order to cut clothes of many types

for all the garments required of the profession; and many secret and curious

facts illuminating the art of the tailor.

Prologue

While I set out to create this book I was beset by so many ideas and in many different ways that I was caused to stop and start many times so as to make sure my words would be of sense to my dear reader. I had hoped to produce a modest tome of little weight and worth that it be of small cost to any person and waste not the time nor work of the printer. I have tired of this work many times, however the prospect of not completing this work so distraught me that I persevered through great turmoil of heart and mind.

I have set this work out in several parts. The order of these parts are to allow both the novice and experienced tailor the ability to view or ignore according to their needs.

Notes on the units of measure

While it has become the fashion to hide true measures through signs and symbols and the changing units across the kindgoms of the Earth, I have chosen to let the reader chose their own unit of measures. The patterns are at 1/5th and 1/10th scale- thus these are easily made up in either imperial or metric systems.

We are fortuitous that most fabrics are now woven in widths that must be displayed when purchasing. This allows us to plan in advance how much fabric to purchase before we set foot in the haberdashers world.

As such I have on occasion indicated by means of close dotted lines to indicate the join of fabric folded to 75cm/30inches. This join may be omitted however it corresponds well to the unit of measure known as a baras and is close to the ell.

Notes on Construction

I have included advice on stitches to use and how to put together the patterns. Most tailors learn these skills while still a child and so are passed by spoken word at an early age. I hope not to insult the reader’s understanding.

I have set these instructions aside in a second volume.

Notes on the Patterns

The patterns follow a logical order of progress from the simplest to the most complex. I start with the shapes unaltered by limitations of fabric width before showing the placement of angled seams as so often desired.

I start with the skirts as these require the most amount of fabric but least degree of fussiness in fit. These patterns may be endlessly blended. Then follows the sleeves and finally the bodices.