frou frou

Aug. 22nd, 2018 05:54 am
glittersweet: (Default)
[personal profile] glittersweet

I haven’t shared to much of this side of my costuming interest- but I wound up collecting a lot of theatrical costume from the end of the 19thC.



Sarah Bernhardt, Lily Langtry, Ellen Terry, Elanora Duse, Adalina Patti, etc..



One of my all time favourite garments is a heavy brocade princess dress worn by Sarah Berhardt in Frou Frou. I bought a biography just for this view (though these images are from Gallica on BNF.



https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f27.item


https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt_-_Sarony,_New_York._LCCN2005683956.tif


https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f3.item


https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f5.item




http://www.artnet.com/artists/napoleon-sarony/sarah-bernhardt-1844-1923-new-york-jOJcTGEItnibRip88ZGoYQ2


Some of her other costumes are found in Die Mode (Maz von Boehn) as is a portrait of Eleanora Duse in the same role.



http:/http://memoria-attori.amati.fupress.net/S1010?genere=2&idcollegato=1&contesto=1


http://memoria-attori.amati.fupress.net/S1010?genere=2&idcollegato=1&contesto=1


Of interest is that these two gowns are very similar in effect. Alternating rows of dark patterned fabric with an open worked material in a pale shade on the tablier.



And no sleeves.



And a high neck.



Meanwhile other costumes worn by Sarah include a gown with perfectly shaped swags all over the tablier. This has also been said to be of her in the lead role of Camille



https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt,_Froufrou,_3695,_Photo_W._%26_D._Downey.jpg


https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sarah_Bernhardt_by_C.R._Savage.jpg


https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:SarahBernhardt_alsKameliendame1881.jpg


https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f18.item


https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f24.item


And finally a very frothy confection that also happens to have an example of the very long form of cuirasse bodice that doesn’t end in a point but instead sits on the legs. This has also been said to be of her in the lead role of Camille



https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8438771v/f1.item


(I cannot find the original of this particular scan)


The first of the following paintings by G. Clarin is in Die Mode. I hadn’t realised it was indeed based on the real costume above.



https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Georges-Jules-Victor_Clairin_-_Frou_Frou,_1882.jpg


https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Clairin,_Georges_Jules_Victor_-_La_Promenade.jpg

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Date: 2018-08-22 02:56 pm (UTC)
clothsprogs: (Default)
From: [personal profile] clothsprogs
Oh, those swags are so beautifully done!

I hadn't seen that costume before

Teddy

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