My Ahsoka hilts skew up the green axis when I used the plugin that bends shapes. It’s so subtle though that it’s very hard to see. And there seems to be a strange slight warp on the surfaces too. So I have had to go back to a much earlier saved file to see if I can get it to do the thing it needs to. I will take the opportunity to try and create the support extrusions as they can be all bent at the same time.

I may have to face the fact that my infusions are wearing out and I need to get ahead of the pain rather than treat it as it happens. I can hardly walk at the moment due to weirdness. I think it’s a mix of nerve pinching and muscle wasting after that nasty nasty bug.


I’m wearing heavy boots, it’s true but that’s also to try and build up strength again. I tried going for a walk and got to the end of the street and wanted to go back home :/ And today it was just the length of the drive! I’ve been standing and doing things but actually walking- my legs feels half numb like I’ve been sitting on my knees for a while!


But my wrists are also really acting up (note- hand surgeon appointment next month) and I’m sore all over like with the flu. So that’s usually the start of a big flare. But I don’t want to take steroids. I may try upping my Leflunomide again. Right yes. It’ll take longer but will last longer.


 

The site will default to your WP login but if you aren’t logged in you can use FB, or Twitter at the very least. Β Woo!



After using the shape bender I used hidden geometry to work out why the end looked blunt and then added lines.


And then used Solid Inspector2 to check for errors. It actually fixed some things that were meant to repair, but not my edges which I did expect.



And then I found trying to slice through horizontally just did not work. The model is perfectly horizontal but as soon as I intersect faces it doesn’t. So lots of short pieces like for Ventress πŸ™‚ I know that worked so this should work too πŸ™‚


I started making fairly the overlaps to help join those pieces once printed but I’m not so I like them, so I’ll spend a little more time today on making ring supports instead.


Each hilt is more than 10 pieces. This is to better reflect the different materials (copper, silver, black) Also to allow the same print to be used as non functional and functional by having some separate blade holders able to be used simply as support, the end cap being functional with the D ring holder and screw. I kept getting errors using the bolt making plugin so I’d rather just not use that atm. It should work at a larger scale but I did find scaling could be unpredictable with curves,


These also have to be arranged in correct alignment for printing. which I will do once the connecting sections are added.


 


I find this quite painful and painfully slow work. A lot has had to be drawn by hand even after using tools and plugins. For example the supports I’m making can’t be just extruded as they connect into pieces on a different angle. So I have to copy from one piece and add to the first and then measure and draw to size. Luckily 5mm seems to work well so I can at least be fairly consistent with that πŸ™‚


It’s seriously fiddly work, lots of copy paste and drawing on the inside and outside

I’ve done this before, so thought I’d capture it for posterity πŸ˜‰



I printed the concept art at full scale. What is helpful with these is the flat back. SO we can use the profile as the very first piece to cut.


Β 


This is then taped perpendicularly to card that will form the back. Once the frame is taped then it’s time to try for shaping the back. This is done by eye which can be a bit off.



To create the sides tape the frame to paper and cut radiating strips out. These offer something for tape to adhere to.


Β 


Then these are cut apart and transfered to card for more careful shaping. Keeping the profile shape helps keep this stable as well.



Once taped to the form it is possible to see where shaping needs to happed. As this is a template it’s possible to only alter one side.


Here only the left has been altered.



The top seam also can be adjusted. And the entire pice taken off the form.


I have used a similar method previously for my Ahsara Zavros ensemble:


http://www.arrayedindreams.com/2015/01/14/1756854/



I used sheer pantihose to smooth the foam. Urethane foam is lovely and squishy but is fragile. The material also allows minimal seepage of latex into the foam to help keep them fairly soft.


Latex shrinks as it cures to the thinner the layer the better.


This is also how I make all my Twi’lek lekku- skinned foam Β πŸ™‚ It takes patience. latex cures very fast in thin layers.


Ahsoka plans

Aug. 20th, 2017 07:42 am
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This is where I left her Montral. The lekku are the next on the agenda.


Β 


I have a cunning plan, but I have managed to move and misplace or actually corretly store so many costume elements this year that I am not sure where all my lekku making materials are.


Sadly probably no pictures while I actually do the work. Latex all over the place and latex cures super fast when in thin layers so it’s easy to lift finger prints or grab fibres from anything if I am not careful πŸ™‚ But it’ll be much the same way I worked on all my lekku.


So that is the plan for tomorrow- work out the lekku proportions and start marking the montral for seamlines with the lekku- I hope to hide the seam in the paint.

It takes 10,000 hours to master something? Maybe an exaggeration but it is many many hours of making good progress and then bad and then good, and then even worse…


But I have hilts actually curved and tidied fairly reasonably.



I have so many in progress images but none of this particular set. Anyway. Tadah!

There’s an extension for that.Β A reminder of all the pieces I had made.



And now totally new model with 16 pieces (well will be when I make the blace support for the smaller hilt.



So pretty. And to show they are indeed separate pieces!



Next I am going to use the Bender extenion as that’s what I used for vetress. I’ll have to make sure the ends are definitely straight so they do not affect the greeblies.


 


I am so happy with these I can’t say how much πŸ™‚ I wish I’d rememered all the extensions I’d used as there are a few very handy one. I hope the threading ext. works. It is going to help me hold the saber in place.


See those long pieces at the end? They are l shaped braces to hold the end cap in place. The screw has been made to go all the way through the model into the corresponding button and counter sunk button respectively in the long and shot sabers.


I think i have a light source sorted. It’s a but spendy but actually within budget so I may hit the “buy now” button on the torch and batteries and charger.


 


I just need to figure out how to rewire a torch intended to be used with an aluminium body that acts as part of the circuit. I think.


But I wired up my mini hilt last time so…. Also- I can print a battery holder- I have seen some on thingy verse so I think I can use then to help make one that will fit in this. I’ve also figures a way to help strenthen a few weak points in my hilt πŸ™‚


 


Very next things to do:


Add a tiny stop to the screws. mothers to the button and counter sunk piece.


Get my curves! Get them to full length including straight ends. These are done as lines outside of a group- so I will need to group my components, then make a curve then fingers crossed!


then slice (and I have a tool for that now πŸ™‚


 

Ahsoka hilts

Aug. 17th, 2017 08:27 am
glittersweet: (Default)

I have actually had to redo alllllllllllll of this. Luckily it’s going much faster now. Note: use right click to reverse faces. Trust me you’ll need it a lot.



But this is why I have been so quiet online lately. Relearning the skills I used for Ventress after not using this for a year or so? Tough! Especially when some of the guides are a bit incomplete.


For example for cale? you click the tool click the diagonal and start typing. No right click, no typing into a text. It’s a bit counter intuitive but I think it’s a bit more accessible this way too? Anyway. Saved me at least a little work- by allowing me to copy components from this file into my at true scale new hilts. And then using them as a guide because I change so much!


 

#ahsokalives hilts are looking lovely. But there is an entity that skews when I try to slice through to make the hilts in short sections. I have a feeling it actually is SKU trying to tidy. So I’ll have to move the body of the hilts, erase one entity look inside and then close it all up before putting the cutting entity through.


So I am preparing for a day of swears. Yes. I do. I try to turn them into not obvious swears but sometimes it sort of slips through.


Right. Prep.


Also i’m allowed the glass topped TV table to use for my 3D printer! Woo. That means I can print with ABS as you need a well ventilated area. My workroom is, but I do not have any stable surface. Aside from my overlocker. I coooouuld use that. Actually. we’ll see. I want to replace the current heavy frame tv table out there with shelve for my molds anyway. The Togruta molds will be difficult but I also have a cunning plan (Trademark Baldrick) to help. Also the new position would be ideal.


Okay.


Now to prep for the day as this is all very exciting.

As in the so called definition of madness. Yes I spent a lot of time yesterday trying to do something expecting it to work. In part because the tutortial I used did not really make full use of SKUs component and group features.


I want to make my hilt fool proof for printing and so I’m dividing them up into shorter sections to print only so high- they are hollow so too tall and there is the risk they will skew. This has to do with Z axis (though my machine has a steel frame- less of an issue unless there is a flaw) and cooling/heating issues. I have a heated plate so that is good.


Anyway. to make a slice. Make a square on the green axis make it a component. And then you can merrily place it through your model and it won’t move anything. Then select everything, explode curves, and intersect selection. Then you have the slices in place.


But keep them all as separate pieces before then.



On the right is me using the guide and this shape stretched some interior planes. No idea why. But I didn’t notice until I have all my hilts divided and ready for adding internal support for snapping the pieces together.


So….. I know now. I have had practice now and it means I should., should, be able to do the last tidying of proportions today.


I have been working to the limits of the resolution my printer can manage (apparently 100microns, 0.1mm) but I need to test my machine. PLA at 0.2mm is a bit chunky. I have seen how fine 0.1mm looks on the standard owl model but I don’t know it if was PLA or ABS.


I now have 1.75mm ABS so can test the machine again. And at 0.1mm


I want to make it easier so I’m trying to round all my measurements to full mm so that’s what I’m doing today. Except for anything to do with the emitter. Though I guess I do now know how to cut through a little more easily…


Oh man. What took a couple of days to get “mostly done” for a solid print is taking ages because I want a fancy one that can hold a blade.

I sometimes think I should try and capture the fun times of working with SKU on screen record. And with mic on so you can hear the sears. They get a creative. Though the f’bomb is usually muttered. and the s’bomb gets stretched out to sheee-er-gerrr.


I saw my PC space with other so it means trying for levity in the stress.


So lots of what the foo, whyyyyyyy? *push keyboard away* Β but whhh-hy-hhy-hy-hy-hy???


Never the less she persisted! Yes I went there. It’s basically the mantra of my life. And there will be a post!



I started with the original images, Note, this is a screenshot, it really is that blurry to work with. I wanted to do a line art originally but used a photocopy in hand and on screen just scaled to hight.


I actually then started a new model with the hilts cropped to height to make it muuuuch easier. And yes, when you import images you need to scale them once in as well. Unless there is a keyboard trick… there probably is.


 


then I made a series of guides and then drew curves and loved it. Until I realised yes, the sides are totally rounded, I did say the images are fuzzy!



So, Viola! (that was a pun.) New guides new scaled image and new face made the same way. From here I extruded a series of tubes leaving the inside empty. It worked really well for Asajj. But I am making mie a touch simple in the joins this time.



Guides guides everywhere!!!!! This was to create the inset grip of the longer hilt. Basically pecil and extrude and some maths!


And yep the decorations are in place. But I wound up having to move them on my longer hilt. That was just a bit frustrating.



Then came the other pieces; inset switches, what i think are peg/screws to hold the end caps in place, the long end cap holder, and the large button. Finally the emitter caps!


The large button. I goofed and wound up with the circle not centred so yesterday was a day of fixing issues like this. I placed everything together (they are all separate components so they will print separately and in whatever orientation works best. I also adjusted length and made the end cap holders fit smoothly to let them pass so we can gain acccess to the insides to put electronics inside.



Here you can see I had yet to place the end caps. But the are there not. I also got the emitters to their final shapes and sizes. One emitter needs some smoothing but aside from that I think I’m happy.


So today with the emitters lined up correctly it’s time to get the pencil out and start cutting.! Had a few practices but it’s not really been perfectly even as I didn’t have then perfectly on my guides.

#ahsokalives hilts with nearly all the little buttons. I also cleaned out the inside of each piece, tidying up guidelines or removing interior lines and planes.



So to make the D ring holder actually fit I have to be very careful about the curves. I see they sort of curve there in the line art but it is a bit much to try to do right now. Also I need to make the emmitter and make sure that fits in the end of the sabers. They are different to each other too.


I need to rest my ribs again. It’s also quite cold so a bit of warmth from the blanket will be good too πŸ™‚

That'll do

Aug. 8th, 2017 06:40 am
glittersweet: (Default)

It would be so nice if there was a super easy way to scale in SKU! It really should be as simple as selecting all, choosing scale and typing in the measurement- but there is a trick to clicking and unclicking and holding the mouse while typing(?) and so I am amazed I managed it. But scaling up by 1000% means I can do half mm in my print.


It is essentially an architectural tool so I get why it is much more sensible to have started at this size. Anyway.



Not bad for a single day where I had a big rest in the middle! My ribs are still sore, and my muscles in my forearms are sore (the shortened bones in my hand mean the tendons and muscles are overworked all the way to my elbows.)


So there are little greeblie details to add but I genuinely have to stop typing in 3,2,….

I’ve been using the @starwarsrebelsΒ supplied concept images of Ahsoka and found I’m only a tiny bit shorter than her, which sort of balances out if I wear orthotics in the boots, which is sensible, and can potentially just pad a little more between me and the headpiece.


(edit, this was supposed to be posted before my last post but well.. I mistake the “add tags” and “publish” buttons!)


So I decided I will scale to the appropriate height of her vs me as it won’t be so far off as to look like I’m carrying oversized versions.


But I want to eventually put a blade in. But even with a little rounding up to account for the blurring of the lines when scaled I wind up with a 20mm thickness. My Shaak Ti and Talon blades are 20mm. I find it mimics the OT and SWR style well while the 25mm (1″) blades often used really mimic the prequels and TCW.


What this means is I would want at least 24mm thickness. This is because there is an inset piece that should be at least 1mm. That gives me 1mm thickness around the blade- a bit close but my ventress hilts are that thin in places. And I could also cut a piece of the same acrylic tubing to support vertically on the belts. Or I could just accept that I can’t have both? Though I did just scale the fronts to match as if I was going for 22mm thickness and that is not so bad. So maybe I could do that.



This has a 3mm thickness and is at the to scale size. Now to see what I can do with a 2mm thickness.


I totally forgot how to do all of this so what should have taken a half hour took a few. But I did finally settle on scale. I enlarged 10% on the face and 20% on the side. It really was the only way to keep length and minimise thickness disruption. Now I need to remeasure and work on the weird grip.


Okay I forgot to publish so here is where I am now!



Next is to figure out the size of the diamonds to add them in and also make the emitter. But I forgot to have lunch and also my ribs are so sore I have to have a lie down.

instagram update


I wound up putting clay on and off about four times. #maleficent horns are easier to sculpt with a 3d reference!


View in Instagram β‡’

Tags:

I decided to set aside a lot of projects so I can really enjoy what I can do- time is slipping away so fast . Well healthy time. So I want to not waste any of it.


So of course I decide to go back to trying to do some 3D projects!


Because Asajj didn’t nearly break my brain. I thiunk I will put them up on Thingiverse though πŸ™‚


Anyway πŸ™‚


Β 


 


There is an Ahsoka print on thingy verse and it’s so nice, so I may or may not wind up adding mine there. But I’d like to make mine hollow to allow for future blade attachments. So yeah. that also means making sure the emitter can be removable.


Next step is to actually get those hilts the right dimensions. Okay. I did manage it before so where to next.

I have a cough still and it’s obviously aggravating my ribs but I am pretty sure I’m no longer infectious.


So I’ve been feeling a bit blue, but have been trying to stay inspired.


Getting 10m of tulle in the underskirt and unpicking what was probably 10m of tulle from the original and getting it in place has drastically changed the fullness! I’ll have to be very careful how I stitch the layers together. I suspect I’ll need to add a plain cotton layer to the taffeta.


So I didn’t wind up working with the bling bling of the skirt as I intended but coo, this skirt now is super full! But I also need to find the photos I took of where to put the last of the stones! And yes, they are the last. Sigh. I keep checking to see if there are any little tubes still.


 


I also very definitely am settling on a Big As Frock design. Lots of inspiration. If anyone has seen my facebook page or here, yes Charles James is playing a big part in that πŸ™‚ I’m not actually in love with the Clover Leaf gown itself but the ideas behind it and the relentless pursuit of achieving exactly what he did? Yes! I need to pick up a copy of the book of the Metropolitan Museum exhibit but I am pretty sure I have seen the pattern for that particular dress. The V&A has one version so it may have been one of their publications.


But I’ve also been inspired by mid 20thC design anyway. There is a Vintage event coming up (I’ve forgotten when and where! darned midnight browsing) and I’d love to get a dream frock ready for that. It’ll be a bit tough but I just need to grab some sequins…..

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