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Feb. 8th, 2017 07:22 am
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When you want to embroider but a cat wants to tear your fabric up, I mean wants to play. #stickels #kleve #kleidung perlenmutzen


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Today the carpal tunnel injections have proven their worth 🙂 If I can do this one or two more times before I have to have surgery I’ll be happy. Sounds like I need my ulna’s chopped off sooner, but, maybe?


Also I may have gone through 1/4 of my Hot Cinnamon Sunset tea. Now if I could get a perma-stash of that I’d be happy 😉


Okay so putting fabric away up high just made my radial stuff really make a statement but I am just wandering around with bandages around my wrists not full splints 🙂


But I have cut my Cleves skirt fully, an entirely new kirtle bodice (hey Michaela it’s summer, you do not want linen canvas, cotton twill, and silk underneath those layers for the bodice) from my linen twill.


Just took a break to share this. I usually work with non easy to photograph fabric so this is why I’m sharing now! I usually use a mechanical pencil and draw directly under the pins that emerge from the top but I just had chalk out there today.





Also yes, florist pins. They grip better and I can really pull in my seams to fit properly. It’s easy to see how, I also overlap them to work like boning/support.

I started with taking a copy of my Braunchweig gown and a transfer of my “german” kirtle to make my two bodices.


This is the Braunchweig copy as it is regionally close but also able to swing into the more dutch bodice shape.


I did also keep the Mary of Hungary bodice in mind.



How this works is the edge is on the grain so you have to smooth and stretch the fabric from there  under the arm and to the waist. So yes the waist is off the grain. This is how the Mary of Hungary gown works too- if the edge was taken off the grain you get stretch going around the neckline that needs to be stabilised.


The down side to this is it makes fitting the armscye a nightmade.


But I kept going.



Ugh, look at how that now sits. Oh the back fits beautifully but where the excess fabric is moved to shows I needed a longer narrower back to be able to support this open neckline.


So my options were to remake the back panel or put in a seam. I dislike putting seams in the CB of my German gear but I am also running out of this fabric!



But it worked.


Then of course I had to copy the seam placement from one side to the other.



Side back matching, and shoulder matching.



SIde front matching.



The silk has almost no give! So I also also had to do a few tweaks on the form. I smoothed the left shoulder up and pushed the excess to fold over the shoulder seam.


As can be seen the armscye is very tight in the front of the arm, this will be clipped but only after I have properly assembled the kirtle layer and have the support this gown needs.


So I may see if I can get the kirtle underneath already to fit the way I need it!

perlenmutzer

Dec. 31st, 2016 11:12 pm
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Progress from 2006:



Progress 2016 after stripping all the fire damaged bezants and sequins:



New pearls on the upper right, the same pattern was repeated on the upper left and a matching overlapping design added to the lower part.


Yes, it looks very wobbly. This is part of how the fabric was eased over the original support. I’ll be clipping the cotton tulle to let it ease as well.



Stash of pearls used for the update. There are a good number left to be able to use over the seam once assembled.



I am about to add the leaves again, these are different, they are what I used on my Krantz for my laurelling, so these are very apt 🙂


Again the pearls look wibbly, I don’t want to stretch the stitches once I put this back on the support so am having to live with it until then. Once on the support these will have heavier thread passed through to support the curves.


So happy to get this progress. I am doing eat therapy on my hands every couple of hours, 10mins at a time.

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