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2017-09-24 05:24 am

Ahsoka progress

Thank goodness! I took the day to redo the montral and front lekku for a nice clean line. It’s worked which is nice πŸ™‚ I was thinking about taking a break from the costume because of them but I think it’s going to work out.


But yay. It’s also inspiring me to work on other scifi type gear πŸ™‚


Including Maleficent πŸ™‚ I’ll need to work with her under better lighting to get a good scan- the ends keep being missed in the IR camera. I may be able to heat up some paler clay to see if that helps.Ditto putting lines on. I’ll see how I go today and tomorrow. But latexing is my main task for the next few days. I say days as the weather is not yet warm enough to cure quickly so I have to cure smart. So no putting the stand outside where it can blow over (had that) and where I can’t prod at it make the support collapse (done that!).


Hmm I may need to quickly put some extra support underneath. Fingers crossed.


Yes. I also need to get some pigment into a container to mix into her colour too. BTW her pantone swatches do not match the final result, so it’s going to be interesting!

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2017-09-22 01:36 am

Ahsoka progress

I had left the hilts and greeblies looking good πŸ™‚ But then… today as I was arranging all the parts on a stand in plate… well I found that I needed to cut one hilt section in half, and also find an emitter end cap.



But this is how it all looks now so it should be good πŸ™‚ Okay I know it’s good as I error checked and used Cura πŸ™‚


 




If you look closely I’m printing at draft quality because I don’t really want to have my printer going for a week. I just don’t trust power/machine combos atmΒ ever πŸ™‚


But it’s really not that bad as I can just sand and acetone wash as planned. So it shouldn’t be extra effort to save a little filament and a lot of time πŸ™‚


 


It looks like I only have photos of the previous sets of hilts over here. Yes. I had to rebuild my hilts from scratch as bending the hilts slightly early lead to something being off by about 1mm over the whole length. I managed to do so in a much shorter time frame but… it was still a lot of work. So to find the hilts still needed work today… ugh.


But, yes, all in parts.



I believe this is actually of my final set πŸ™‚ The emitter got lost so I have put it back in the file here (with all the pieces nested) and in the file at the top (all parts in areas about the size of the plate of my printer) and are in the three files for each print job.


I used LIPID object exporter plugin for Sketchup and opened them in Cura to make sure they were all aligned correctly.


I do really enjoy this. Well most of it. Once the order is sorted and I don’t have to work in the air as such.


 

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2017-09-20 06:52 am

scanned rib

And nothing shows. Well the break did. It was quite impressive to be fair. It’s also the rib above the one that hurts. So I broke the last false rib and it’s the free end of the first floating riib that hurts. The break is very close the the end of the 11th rib so maybe that’s why it hurts? It could be tiny ligament? But it feels like there are nerves at the end that are pressure sensitive.


That’s not showing up though.


So at least I know it’s the floating rib so it in theory can’t really do much, it’s kind of reliant on the costal muscles- and I know they need stretching so… hopefully that’s it.


 


What is a bit of a worry is my carpal tunnel feels like it has started up again. I did wrangle with some blue swimmer crab, and also with some fused fabric. So there is that. Also pressed my Elsa cape flurry and snowflakes.


 


It’s now a couple of hours later- and I have regained a lot of flex πŸ™‚ It’s no lie that flinching over my rib has caused muscles to seize all the way to my feet. But I can sit in second position again and rest my chest along my legs, and I can lean on my elbows level with my feet. I used to nearly get my chest to the floor but for only a week, if that, yes- a lot of power in regular stretching, pain relief when needed to do my strength building.

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2017-09-12 08:19 pm

Instagram catch up

Β 


My Take A Breather costume- A remake of my Jem dress πŸ™‚ The belt and shoes were still fine but I also have a glorious new wig. So it needs a really glam dress.


And Ahsoka belt and bracers. I now have the belt wet forming on a dressform.



The horns separated in temperature change, the plastic went up and the clay went down. This necessitated getting the horns able to be worked on more easily and able to be tidied away.



Take the seat off a stool and replace it with the sculpting surface. Perfect height for sitting at πŸ™‚



My back lekku is a little short and the front sit too close so I also had to change how I worked with her.



So I put my old head cast on a dress form. Her neck is so short because I was aligning bust and chin. My shoulders sit much lower and my neck is rather long. This may help exlpain how much work I need to do on patterns to fit them! And why dress forms are rarely helpful.



This is a waratah. It is not supposed to be a standard (long skinny trunk and ball shaped top.) But that is what we have. Also the bottle brush at the back is not a single tree but is doing what the waratah was supposed to.



Finally some of the ducks are back. This one taps on my door for food. And then goes to the other end of the drive to the house to ask for more.

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2017-09-11 04:04 am

So that rib

Turns out it’s broken, healing but broken. Cartilage does not show up on xrays though and here is weirdness at the jon between bone and cartilage so I will ask for further investigation.


As for what can be done… nothing. Pain relief. But nothing.

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2017-09-06 11:04 pm

Stalled progress

My Ahsoka lekku did not cure as well as needed. So I’m going to see if I can tidy the belt template and start tooling leather.

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2017-09-06 07:58 pm

Maleficent horns


New horn frame with some clay added back. The aim is that this will be easier. Also when scanning I only need one horn, thank goodness.

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2017-09-06 06:31 am

It took all day

But I am nearly back to where I was. I decided that I was too annoyed by the short back lekku to be happy. Side track to making a new stand for sculpting and I now have wiggly lekku- one attached two on the floor.


 


And so much mess.


 


So much.


 


But the back lekku has a layer of latex, there is latex grouting on the new montral seams (actually an older cast that was still in pieces) and I also templated a headband for her.

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2017-09-05 07:20 pm

catching up here and elsewhere

I mainly use IIinstagram right now. I used to be ableto use a handy plugin to import the 750x750pxl images into my media, but can’t now. So it’s a case of remembering to batch convert a whole pile of images as well as crop them before updaing πŸ™‚


I changed the them. One small issue with my fonts, but it loads faster. Not in love with the blog layout- that may be a case of changing preview image sizes. Or seeing if I can tweak the layout.


There have been things happening, but they deserve their own posts. WHile waiting for my iron and Berocca to kick in there will be an attempt!

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2017-08-26 01:59 am

Elsa cape dye recipe

I have started my new cape so I thought Β I’d quickly set out the measurements of dye needed.


 


For a 2.5m long cape:


Do this in two batches, do not be tempted to do it all in one go unless you have an industrial sized pot and oven!


 


5m of 150cm tulle/net


1 dye pack of iDye poly blue


2x Color enhancer (unless you have access to the colour enhancer sold separately (I wish I did!)


 


Stovetop


Stock pot


tongs


whisk


measuring jar (and two smaller identical containers)


bucket (2x if you want to save the dye)


 


Latex gloves


 


Additional: horsehair braid for hem will also tint to match.


 


Pre-wash the net to remove any shop dust or sizing that may be on the fabric. I often use a liquid dish soap for this. It creates a lot of foam but it really strips any oils off. Dry fabric.


 


Divide the length of fabric into two 2.5m lengths.


Dissolve the dye in a glass measuring jug use about 2 cups. Whisk the dye through to totally dissolve the now gummy pack.


Heat water in a very large stock pot. I am not sure what mine is but I fill it to 2/3 then top with boiling water to a level the dry tulle comfortably fits in. When wet it will collapse and so be able to stir evenly.


Once the water is simmering add half the dye. I had no markings on my jug so I first divided it equally between two glasses that had obvious markings to use as a guide.


Then tear the colour enhancer pack perfectly across and use every last drop.


Let water come to near boil.


Quickly use the tongs to transfer the tulle to the pot, short lengths at a time, push the newer fabric so that the earlier fabric moves along and creates a circular spin in the water, continue to add the fabric until all is in the pot. Using the fabric dry will not cool down the water and so will actually help get a very vibrant colour.


Boil and stir for 5m.


Transfer to bucket and take the fabric out of the bucket on a lawn. This saves the dye and also cools the fabric and dye down to stop the dyeing process.


If you do not have an out door area, then put a plug in to a stainless steel tub and rince dyed tulle under cold water. This too will stop the dyeing process.


Repeat for the other side.


 


The fabric will be very dark. It will seem to dark. But tulle and some nets are made from totally clear monofilament. What this means that as it dries it will allow light through but also bounce white light back from the glossy surface. This will eventually turn the net royal blue.


This dark Β tone in turn also makes the net even more translucent against your dress and the floor. It will then create very distinct lines of colour when pleated into crisp angles.



Note how the cape is quite dark while the snowflake designs are paler and very light reflective.


 


Β 


If you are nervous then it is possible to use half the dye pack for both lengths but still 2x colour enhancers. It will create a blue that is more what people expect her cape to be. In very close up details the cape fabric is indeed quite dark. The aforementioned physical properties of clear monofilament

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2017-08-24 04:12 am

I think I solved it

Well I have divided the hilts into reasonable lengths and created supports so now… now I hope I can just make a curve and use the plugin. Hopefully. I am exhausted.

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2017-08-24 12:51 am

I'm trying to not cry

My Ahsoka hilts skew up the green axis when I used the plugin that bends shapes. It’s so subtle though that it’s very hard to see. And there seems to be a strange slight warp on the surfaces too. So I have had to go back to a much earlier saved file to see if I can get it to do the thing it needs to. I will take the opportunity to try and create the support extrusions as they can be all bent at the same time.

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2017-08-23 07:07 am

very sore indeed

I may have to face the fact that my infusions are wearing out and I need to get ahead of the pain rather than treat it as it happens. I can hardly walk at the moment due to weirdness. I think it’s a mix of nerve pinching and muscle wasting after that nasty nasty bug.


I’m wearing heavy boots, it’s true but that’s also to try and build up strength again. I tried going for a walk and got to the end of the street and wanted to go back home :/ And today it was just the length of the drive! I’ve been standing and doing things but actually walking- my legs feels half numb like I’ve been sitting on my knees for a while!


But my wrists are also really acting up (note- hand surgeon appointment next month) and I’m sore all over like with the flu. So that’s usually the start of a big flare. But I don’t want to take steroids. I may try upping my Leflunomide again. Right yes. It’ll take longer but will last longer.


 

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2017-08-22 09:06 pm

Comments are back and I'm so close to printing

The site will default to your WP login but if you aren’t logged in you can use FB, or Twitter at the very least. Β Woo!



After using the shape bender I used hidden geometry to work out why the end looked blunt and then added lines.


And then used Solid Inspector2 to check for errors. It actually fixed some things that were meant to repair, but not my edges which I did expect.



And then I found trying to slice through horizontally just did not work. The model is perfectly horizontal but as soon as I intersect faces it doesn’t. So lots of short pieces like for Ventress πŸ™‚ I know that worked so this should work too πŸ™‚


I started making fairly the overlaps to help join those pieces once printed but I’m not so I like them, so I’ll spend a little more time today on making ring supports instead.


Each hilt is more than 10 pieces. This is to better reflect the different materials (copper, silver, black) Also to allow the same print to be used as non functional and functional by having some separate blade holders able to be used simply as support, the end cap being functional with the D ring holder and screw. I kept getting errors using the bolt making plugin so I’d rather just not use that atm. It should work at a larger scale but I did find scaling could be unpredictable with curves,


These also have to be arranged in correct alignment for printing. which I will do once the connecting sections are added.


 


I find this quite painful and painfully slow work. A lot has had to be drawn by hand even after using tools and plugins. For example the supports I’m making can’t be just extruded as they connect into pieces on a different angle. So I have to copy from one piece and add to the first and then measure and draw to size. Luckily 5mm seems to work well so I can at least be fairly consistent with that πŸ™‚


It’s seriously fiddly work, lots of copy paste and drawing on the inside and outside

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2017-08-21 05:53 am

Ahsoka lekku patterning

I’ve done this before, so thought I’d capture it for posterity πŸ˜‰



I printed the concept art at full scale. What is helpful with these is the flat back. SO we can use the profile as the very first piece to cut.


Β 


This is then taped perpendicularly to card that will form the back. Once the frame is taped then it’s time to try for shaping the back. This is done by eye which can be a bit off.



To create the sides tape the frame to paper and cut radiating strips out. These offer something for tape to adhere to.


Β 


Then these are cut apart and transfered to card for more careful shaping. Keeping the profile shape helps keep this stable as well.



Once taped to the form it is possible to see where shaping needs to happed. As this is a template it’s possible to only alter one side.


Here only the left has been altered.



The top seam also can be adjusted. And the entire pice taken off the form.


I have used a similar method previously for my Ahsara Zavros ensemble:


http://www.arrayedindreams.com/2015/01/14/1756854/



I used sheer pantihose to smooth the foam. Urethane foam is lovely and squishy but is fragile. The material also allows minimal seepage of latex into the foam to help keep them fairly soft.


Latex shrinks as it cures to the thinner the layer the better.


This is also how I make all my Twi’lek lekku- skinned foam Β πŸ™‚ It takes patience. latex cures very fast in thin layers.


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2017-08-20 07:42 am

Ahsoka plans

This is where I left her Montral. The lekku are the next on the agenda.


Β 


I have a cunning plan, but I have managed to move and misplace or actually corretly store so many costume elements this year that I am not sure where all my lekku making materials are.


Sadly probably no pictures while I actually do the work. Latex all over the place and latex cures super fast when in thin layers so it’s easy to lift finger prints or grab fibres from anything if I am not careful πŸ™‚ But it’ll be much the same way I worked on all my lekku.


So that is the plan for tomorrow- work out the lekku proportions and start marking the montral for seamlines with the lekku- I hope to hide the seam in the paint.

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2017-08-20 07:28 am

Ahsoka progress and plans

It takes 10,000 hours to master something? Maybe an exaggeration but it is many many hours of making good progress and then bad and then good, and then even worse…


But I have hilts actually curved and tidied fairly reasonably.



I have so many in progress images but none of this particular set. Anyway. Tadah!

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2017-08-18 07:43 am

ahsoka hilts genuinely ready for curving!

There’s an extension for that.Β A reminder of all the pieces I had made.



And now totally new model with 16 pieces (well will be when I make the blace support for the smaller hilt.



So pretty. And to show they are indeed separate pieces!



Next I am going to use the Bender extenion as that’s what I used for vetress. I’ll have to make sure the ends are definitely straight so they do not affect the greeblies.


 


I am so happy with these I can’t say how much πŸ™‚ I wish I’d rememered all the extensions I’d used as there are a few very handy one. I hope the threading ext. works. It is going to help me hold the saber in place.


See those long pieces at the end? They are l shaped braces to hold the end cap in place. The screw has been made to go all the way through the model into the corresponding button and counter sunk button respectively in the long and shot sabers.


I think i have a light source sorted. It’s a but spendy but actually within budget so I may hit the “buy now” button on the torch and batteries and charger.


 


I just need to figure out how to rewire a torch intended to be used with an aluminium body that acts as part of the circuit. I think.


But I wired up my mini hilt last time so…. Also- I can print a battery holder- I have seen some on thingy verse so I think I can use then to help make one that will fit in this. I’ve also figures a way to help strenthen a few weak points in my hilt πŸ™‚


 


Very next things to do:


Add a tiny stop to the screws. mothers to the button and counter sunk piece.


Get my curves! Get them to full length including straight ends. These are done as lines outside of a group- so I will need to group my components, then make a curve then fingers crossed!


then slice (and I have a tool for that now πŸ™‚


 

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2017-08-17 08:27 am

Ahsoka hilts

I have actually had to redo alllllllllllll of this. Luckily it’s going much faster now. Note: use right click to reverse faces. Trust me you’ll need it a lot.



But this is why I have been so quiet online lately. Relearning the skills I used for Ventress after not using this for a year or so? Tough! Especially when some of the guides are a bit incomplete.


For example for cale? you click the tool click the diagonal and start typing. No right click, no typing into a text. It’s a bit counter intuitive but I think it’s a bit more accessible this way too? Anyway. Saved me at least a little work- by allowing me to copy components from this file into my at true scale new hilts. And then using them as a guide because I change so much!


 

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2017-08-14 09:40 pm

Determined today is the last for my hilts

#ahsokalives hilts are looking lovely. But there is an entity that skews when I try to slice through to make the hilts in short sections. I have a feeling it actually is SKU trying to tidy. So I’ll have to move the body of the hilts, erase one entity look inside and then close it all up before putting the cutting entity through.


So I am preparing for a day of swears. Yes. I do. I try to turn them into not obvious swears but sometimes it sort of slips through.


Right. Prep.


Also i’m allowed the glass topped TV table to use for my 3D printer! Woo. That means I can print with ABS as you need a well ventilated area. My workroom is, but I do not have any stable surface. Aside from my overlocker. I coooouuld use that. Actually. we’ll see. I want to replace the current heavy frame tv table out there with shelve for my molds anyway. The Togruta molds will be difficult but I also have a cunning plan (Trademark Baldrick) to help. Also the new position would be ideal.


Okay.


Now to prep for the day as this is all very exciting.