instagram update

#hippolytacosplay New obsession.organising a group for Auckland if anyone is interested. Mine is all stash apart from the cloak.

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instagram update

Working with clay today- to save power all at once. #padmeamidala #maleficent #leiaorgana redo ๐Ÿ™‚ but now clay under nails so need to scrub them!

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instagram update

Superfluff is very happy at the end of my bed. He likes to watch the birds I think.

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instagram update

Home made scones for Mum ๐Ÿ™‚ yep with cold butter in the flour and everything ๐Ÿ™‚ #edmondscookerybook

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Still here

May. 31st, 2017 02:14 am
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I have been slightly overdoing things for me, but still feeling like I’m running backwards.

My separated rib does mostly feel normal. It’s not ideal but healing and not too differently to how it was originally. I just need to make sure I don’t do what I did to my broken toe 6 weeks after- which is to rebreak it. There is still pain and I’m not entirely sure if it is contributing inflammation to the general area.

That cold? It got reintroduced to the home but hooray for immune memory!ย So aside from some itchy eyes and feeling a bit like there are germs everywhere (psychological reaction, though true) it’s not been a double whammy.

I am revisiting being vegetarian again. I have ย noticed some side effects that double down on side effects of medication so I’m trying to avoid that. But I think I ‘ll keep seafood as it’s know to protect against a lot of issues I’m concerned about.

Fatigue has just hit again in the last few hours, in part due to the noise of digging up the road for fibre (not our street- the main street we are on and the main street parallel to us.) And regular drop out of our wifi (probably related.) I was trying to back track images and it was just so much extra work.ย And it’s a big project. So I now feel even more overwhelmed by it!

instagram update

#marieantoinette lace arrived. It’s so beautiful!!!!!!

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catching up

May. 29th, 2017 08:02 pm
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So yes, a bit of a quiet patch then FLURRY of posts ๐Ÿ™‚

But it is very reflective of life right now. I’m having the first bout of stable energy in a long time. Iย am though in the midst of my second cold of the seasonย (the first was a new strain so was very not fun, this one must be related to it or another one my immune system remembers as it’s just like being tired and nasally- though my voice was in good nick and I’ve been singing early music again!)

So right now I need to get older projects out as they are weighing on me heavily. Luckily at least two are going to be a boon for my workshops (fixing the black and white sheer dress, and making over the Phantom wedding dress:


So close to accurate materials vs gone overboard with the opal organza and lace.

I have beads and lace galore to add to that one ๐Ÿ™‚ So speaking of my workshops…

What I will have on display ย I’ve just put up on my Facebook Page


So back to the fixing of the backlog while I have had a few days straight of being awake ๐Ÿ™‚


Carlo favours boxes.


But he also wants to be part of everything.

The Fluff has tried to stay in pretty much every room but Carlo does not like him. So we have sort of got him to stay in my room. Though I catch Carlo in there every so often!


Taken from instagram posts ๐Ÿ™‚

The bodice- so many gathers! It’s a mix of hand sewing and machining. Just need to add in the crossover support and then I can actually sew the hood and cape and sleeves in.

Skirt progress. Two hours for the gathers and beads, and yet I am keen to keep going today ๐Ÿ™‚


instagram update

Needy? Needy. That was my stand by mouse pad. Was.

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(and I got that tin for Tiana and the sparkles. Gotta admit love Aurora on this too. But it was all about Tiana ๐Ÿ™‚

instagram update

The shy Spotty where he thinks he wants to be. We are going to have to try something for his stress. These boxes can’t be his only happy places.

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(update he likes the spot between my mouse and monitor)

instagram update

This is the thing that happened- but two ribs down. It’s weird and uncomfortable and no one tells you of the surprising side effects of pressure on your abdomen…….

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(addit- okay so I actually chipped off some cartilage. Now that the inflammation and pain have gone I can really get a good feel and there is a bit of solid mass that’s like the shape and size of a pumpkin seed that can be pushed over the rib, and I can feel a very deep furrow under it. So I think I have a fair bit of healing to go!

I was trying to boot from my back up ssd in the first place.


That said, this one boots even from a forced shutdown (haven’t tried cutting power as per a power cut) so it seems to be a good solid drive for the OS. My old ssd is five years old, and while I probably have a few more years of write cycles I did need to get a new one.

I do however have a ridiculous numbver of drivers for my USB ports- I mean i know there are 8, two of which are triple ports (? in bios I see port 3_1, 3_2 etc.)

But yay! Allll my files are safe, so once I get those drivers over here I can start tidying the old SSD.

Only downside- my drivers for my USB 3 ports are a bit munted. SO I need to have a look at what is different in each system and see if I can get them working.

So the chipset for the controller is one manufacturer, the builder of the rest of the component is another. The chipset maker only has drives up to win 7, the rest of the component up to win 8 for the other controller, and win 7 for the former.)

So by updating win 8 to win 10 I seem to have been lucky the first time in how my drivers where handled. This fresh install did not.

So. It’s okay now that I can make hot ports and get my harddrives out quickly (my tower is not acccessible friendly!)



Also windows. So I was really worried about installing windows on a new ssd in case I had to use my 8 disc and then have to update… but it turns out Windows 10 stores information about your hardware so you can change your harddrive and keep your current version of Win 10 so.. yay? Downloaded the iso already just waiting to afford the ssd.

But it does look like I have an error that power cycling can’t fix so I do have to get a new harddrive and you know, install the O/S.

On the other hand I should be getting my Marie Antoinette lace asap. Youshop charges by volumetric weight not actual weight- my lace is 1.5kg! So… 2 and a half pounds. Lighter than Elsa as it is lace not a solid sheet ๐Ÿ™‚


After this run of bad luck I’m trying to not get too excited (rib, then virus, hen antibiotics, and all the resewing of projects this year, and the ssd failure.)

So if anyone is reading this and hasn’t “liked” my page please help by taking some of this excess of stash off my hands. I’ll put it on ebay and local auction sites soon.

I can guarantee you will not find the lace for cheaper, the taffeta is half he price I paid and there are no sales here in NZ that get that low.


(oh learning about partition typoes, about ahci, about the lifespan of an ssd which is finite and potentially will just stop- given how much I played my game on it and how many times I moved libraries of files… and that it is five years old I want a new ssd rather than risk losing the data on it.)

Also am typing on my netbook which is now linux Mint powred, with my usb keyboard and mouse and monitor so it feels like normal. I can cope for a short while until I get the new ssd. Luckily the stuff for my workshops are all on my site or newly thought of and written down.

So it may be time to warm up and then sew some more of my Cleves gown. I keep avoiding trying to create a document on my netbook because I expect it to overload- but it’s not actually doing too badly ๐Ÿ™‚

I’ve always had an issue on my comp that Win 10 will not boot. Turns out this is very common, and specifically to my mix of motherboard, ssd, and win 10.

Essentially win 10 considers the ssd to be corrupt. So it really is not trusting its own source…

In the past just leaving the bios open for a few hours has worked but not this time.

The motherboard can see it- recognises when I change connections. It’s Windows. And it may well be when it updates.

Anyway. So I now am at my tiny netbook with the hyper sensitive touchpad that is also shiny so kind of is at time not at all sensitive.

I have to remove Win 10 from this as basically it updated using other computers in the network and it simply is too big to even run. Let alone try to explore.

I managed to get the hip gathers of my Padme Light Blue actually sitting nicely ๐Ÿ™‚ So there has been a little bit of basting of gathers and sorting out layers. next step is to sew. Just need to look at piccies to see which direction the seam allowances lie, or if I’ll have to do some very careful hand stitching to set the SA of the gathers back into the gathered section. Not exactly doable with machined stitches, and so I’d have to look at handsewing them. Not totally ick but enough icky-wiggle room to make it a case of doing one side each evening. The fabric is stretchy so backstitches will be needed and so that means careful stretching as I stitch. Pretty sure that they are machined though and so the SA turns to the vertical gathers and could be hidden in the folds.


And so I then turned to other tasks which included plotting out my workshops in more detail and got a little confused. I started listing things to cover that were useful across different elements.

And then I found my initial online guides notes and realised that the answer was there all the time. Doh! The order in my notes is perfect. i just now need to set down and do some digarmas fr sleeves and bodices. And collate some notes on trimming as I have pleats and gathers and darts already written up ๐Ÿ™‚


So I now have a really good flow for the workshops and have all my current notes sorted into different clear protectors and completely in love with how this current theme works printed up. It’s just so clear and the title and header even looks right. So happy. It meant I was able to print my tutorials for my meeting and it means my workshops will webify easily and then in turn be able to be printed.Pretty darn excited and even if not a heck of a lot was actually doneย it has been part of a longer term exercise in establishing a routine to get larger projects done.

In that regard as well I realised have have brilliant lining fabric for Missy and can still part with other fabrics. Might have to see if I can get them on TradeMe- the biog issue being that these are varying weights and they really should be tracked to make sure they get where they need to be. And so that makes for a bit of difficulty in setting up an auction. I know I like an upfront cost!

instagram update

This didn’t take too long but I forgot I’m still recovering so I had to leave it. #padmeamidala tatooine gown is alot of hand work!

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instagram update

I now have an ice wall ๐Ÿ™‚ so happy and so thrifty. Aurora bolealis glitter on net, I think they are table runners. Go two left over to cover the floor. My vinyl floor area needs. Cleaning though.

View in Instagram โ‡’

So I have been thinking a lot about order of sewing, technologies, and workshop roles a lot. I just have forgotten to apply it to my own work and finally made that connection ๐Ÿ™‚

I keep stalling hemming because I want it to go fast, it hurts physically so I use long needles so I can reduce stress on any one finger but instead use three fingers and thumb. And I know people expect a “laurel” finish.

Well okay so no my hems don’t look like a master made them.

But they sure as heck look like the real deal because hems weren’t done by a master.

My work looks like it was from a workshop not a single hand. And I like that.

But it took a long time to like that. It’s not about sloppy stitches it’s about practical stitches that are also speedy. I may not have had my daily rations to aim for as a reward but I do get my frock that one step closer when it’s done. So not the same thing and it really does make me appreciate the anonymous workers who made up the garments we now know by the designer or the wearer.


Anyway. So finding that appreciation for my own work again made it much more enjoyable. I stopped making excuses to not do it because it was not good enough. It is.


Now redoing the hemming of my suite of ruffs… I’m not looking forward to that. That does need teeny tiny stitches and having lost TWO(!!!!!!!) ruffs hemmed to ridiculous fineness I also really don’t want to invest in stitching something that will likewise get lost again.

Well okay. Let’s see if I can put the same positive thought process into the hemming of the ruff.


Oh but hemming took about 3 hours as it was so no, I was most definitely not making excuses for my work. It’s a hard task as it was the wool facing that needed stitching- it needed to be caught to match the edge of the gold braid to make sure it didn’t self collapse. And I still need to tack the layers together underneath the row.

Tags: cleves


So I like to not just recreate garments but to understand how they came to be made in different ways.

I look at society at large as well as technological advances.

A pattern that seems to repeat is to shift the focus of care ofย fine detail when technology can make a process faster/cheaper/safer

So very early dress is often incredibly carefully stitched. Tiny invisible stitches. But the garments are not complicated- seams tend to be straight.

Fast forward to the 16th Century and you have looms and many workers on them making fabrics faster. You see stitches that are functional being made faster and a lot less carefully where they aren’t seen but a lot more complexity of cut and layers.


By the 19thC you get very dimorphic clothing for men and women with totally different fabrics and fitting and construction. And it’s not that one is better than the other but the investment of skill is applied in different ways.

For example in the 1880s you have tailors suits for men from wool with hair canvas to build up their shoulders and otherwise not change the shape of the body but the appearance.

For women of the time the corset shapes the body itself. Once you do that you don’t bury it under layers of fabric. So you get bodices that are flat lined. To make it sit as closely as possible and to avoid stress wrinkles the two layers of fabric are generally very stable but much finer than we tend to imagine them to be. They fit like a glove over the corset so what we see is the solidity of both layers.


So jumping back to the 16thC I ask myself where is the expertise applied and what is given to less skilled hands.

And that is cutting and fitting is by the master and sometimes journeyman, but all the plain stitching is by the hands of many apprentices. And apprentices were children. ย Children who were learning their trade and expected to learn quickly and work even faster.

So under those circumstances you learn to be as conservative with your time as possible. Stitches that are functional and stable are more important than hiding them, getting as many done as possible to earn your keep most important.

And this bears out. Stitches are neat and hold the different layers of fabric Just So but there is not an extra stitch anywhere. Not where they are not needed. You save that kind of fancy work for where it will not only be seen but be needed.


Linen goods of the time though are still made with the old technology- straight lines, tiny stitches to the point they can be invisible.

So this is why I am passionate about the technical aspect of costume. Each stitch, each cut, each trim is the work of many people who are at different stages of their career and reflect current technologies.


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