Feb. 27th, 2017


by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014




It’s difficult but I’m about to delve in to my digital archives (there are 100,000 files just in general historic, not my SCA era folder!)


So I’ll start with the start!


 


Casneau’s guide for artistic dress cutting and making (1895)


Author: Casneau, Alice A., Mrs. [from old catalog]


Subject: Dressmaking


Publisher: Boston, Brooks bank note company

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 9154845

Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congressamericana

Notes: gutters were tight through out the book


Love this! Actual in progress photos of a stunning tailor dress.






Instruction book for the standard tailor system .. (1896)


Author: Evan, H. P., co., Chicago. [from old catalog]

Subject: Dressmaking; Garment cutting. [from old catalog]

Publisher: Chicago, Ill., H. P. Evan co.

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 5881277

Digitizing sponsor: The Library of Congress

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congress; americana


Full catalog record: MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.


Another pattrn book- more patterns less detail on how to make them. But a lovely range of patterns for the family (no tailoring.)



by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014




Dress fitting made easy .. (1892)


Author: Barnes, A., L. [from old catalog]

Subject: Dressmaking. [from old catalog]

Publisher: [Philadelphia]

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 6817382

Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congressamericana

Notes: This book is not numbered!


Full catalog record: MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.


 


Short but with lots of notes for each bodice part.



by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014




Home dressmaking; a complete guide to household sewing (1892)


Author: Myers, Annie E

Subject: Dressmaking

Publisher: Chicago, C.H. Sergel & company

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 7748833

Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congressamericana


Full catalog record: MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.


 


Full of how to’s for construction, including how to use gathers and


When there is a great deal of material to gather into

a small compass, the gathering stitch has to be discarded,

the intervals between the stitches being too

wide to sew across. Then the material is evenly

pleated up and sewed as pleated to the belt, shown in

the uncompleted portion. The advantage of this gathering

over real pleats is that the gathered pleats are

upright, and the material below hangs freely, while

pleats are sewed flatly into the belt and confine the

material more.


pg. 38


Narry a comment about these being cartridge pleats at all. Because they aren’t, if anthing hanging pleats would be more accurate.


 


Cutting diagrams included.



by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014




The elements of modern dressmaking for the amateur and professional dressmaker (1894)


Author: Davis, Jeanette EHolahan, Cora M., ed

Subject: Dressmaking

Publisher: New York, The Cassell publishing co

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 10088784

Digitizing sponsor: The Library of Congress

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congressamericana


Full catalog record: MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.


 


It’s in pdf now!!!!! OMG!!!! i LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOVE this book. I use the pattern diagram for my Victorian bodices and it talks about things totally not thought of. Like how to smooth the layers of the bodice from under the side of the bust to over, and then pin the fronts to shape. This is because the lining won’t stretch as much as say a wool shell and this makes the fabrics work together.


It also talks about feather boning which is actually made from feather quills!




by michaela de bruce, August 10, 2014




A word about perfect systems of cutting, which will do

away with any necessity for trying-on, may not be out of place:

every dressmaker hopes to find one, and learns system after

system in the vain endeavour. If such a thing were possible,

tailors would have discovered it before this ; the costliness

of the material they work upon, and the difficulty of making

alterations upon firm cloth, as compared with soft dress

materials, would ensure their straining every nerve to master

knowledge so very desirable and essential ; and the really

marvellous fitting without trying-on which is done by many

dressmakers as well as tailors would seem to declare that the

knowledge has been mastered ; but those same tailors and

dressmakers know that the risk of alteration being required

has always to be faced, in spite of careful measuring, of

a pattern bodice at hand to compare with, and of the most

minute care having been taken with every step of the work

from first to last. It is well for less experienced workers to

be very careful and painstaking, and not to expect too much

from the cutting only. Perfect cutting must be followed by

perfect making-up if everything is to be perfect throughout,

and such perfection cannot be ensured as a matter of course

to every worker, be she clever and experienced or altogether

otherwise, simply by the cutting-out.


The book is really stuffed full of information, and really is my go to for late 19thC bodices.






Home dressmaking; (1913)


Author: Ford, Jane. Mrs. [from old catalog]

Subject: Dressmaking

Publisher: New York, Cupples & Leon company

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 9639199

Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congress; americana


Full catalog record: MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.


Another in between but the illustrations are very clear- not a drafting system but how to alter patterns and also a handy guide on how to adjust a corset and making your own bust form (hint making a fitted lining and put over a standard form- hen pad to fit. Good instructions on stay tapes to prevent stretch.)






Streiff’s system of garment cutting (1913)


Author: Streiff, Eugene Lawrence, 1866- [from old catalog]

Subject: Tailoring

Publisher: Detroit, Mich. [Printed by A. W. Brookes]

Possible copyright status: The Library of Congress is unaware of any copyright restrictions for this item.

Language: English

Call number: 10107813

Digitizing sponsor: Sloan Foundation

Book contributor: The Library of Congress

Collection: library_of_congress; americana


Full catalog record: MARCXML


[Open Library icon]This book has an editable web page on Open Library.


Male and female garments, shorter with more direct patterns with less text on fitting.


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