Feb. 23rd, 2017

I have not shared too much because the process is fairly arcane and frustrating and I'm trying to find the best way to put that in words. Anyway.


http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:Ventress_CW_Betrayed

That's a moi.


See this? Think of me as the author and illustrator with two editors :). Two members who either both have access to updating the database- or one is able to edit files and the other cleared it for full approval. Anyway. I need a bit of a break from the beaurocratic side but I am just asking about  one more thing to help others have a slightly easier path to approval 🙂


Anyway.


This is a huge deal. This is the guide by which anyone wanting to register this costume with the 501st will use. And I am totally open to helping people, and in fact passing on my fabric finds and 3D files. I'll get them on thingyverse I think.


So yeah, pretty damn big deal.  Actually one of the things in the editing process I kept trying and was luckily supported in- not to make it too specific. I also had to make it fit with American terminology. You all know a bodysuit is not a shirt right? But that's what the other Ventress bodysuits have been called- it wasn't until I looked at other parts of other CRLs I realised this. So go forth and make your shirts bodysuits so you can anchor them in place and not have them ride up!

So pretty!


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Silk and mylar for the silver, and the drape is insanely fluid. So once I knock out the colour a bit (the silk is a beige) it will be incredibly delicate and light ???? But this now means I can indeed concentrate on this gown as The Gown for the next few years ????

There are fitted/shaped bodices everywhere. I remember this from my original notes waaaaay back in the 90s. I collected interesting images versus typical fashion a lot of the time. Lots of Nasimova. And there was that amazing Dover book of fashion from the 1920s. I think I may have found many of the original items that were redrawn (in a beautiful style totally appropriate to the era which is why I didn't realise they were redrawings at the time.)


Anyway, there is yet another variation of the V neck dropped waist and flared skirt so I think I will whizz up that style in my velvet after all. For the photo safari (models and photographers togetehr to get a winning photo amongst vintage cars) it may be a bit more striking.


Have I mentioned I'll have magenta hair?


I'm going to have magenta coloured hair 🙂 Test drove finger waves today. My mum has to do it (she is a professional hairdresser, trained as an apprentice and journeywoman under th eold system 🙂 ) But it;s been a long time since she's needed to do finger waves so we are looking at making sure we practice and we make the style work with the way my hair works. My new curl is great but it means the waves have to be Just So or we wind up essentially straightening it 😉


So today I managed to get all the tape inside one corset, and I got my panniers cut and the tape sewn along the top edge. I managed to just piece enough!


And I have been watching Tweleve a lot, the whole Danny Pink arc is a bit comforting right now. It's fiction but it is a comfort. 

If I don’t enter my frock in the Upcycling contest then I can wear it all day. However I’ve done so much research and have so many files of patterns saved that I really want to share. Also, did you know Jeanne Lenvin not only didn’t originate the Robe de Style but she basically renamed a fashion that was already known as being Spanish. Yep. So that’s been fun to find when that changed.

But another thing I suspect not many people here will be aware of is that while the bagginess was every where a lot of women not only didn’t like it but managed to remain not only very fashionable but rather daring in having their clothes fit incredibly close to the body.

So I am really inspired to do something with a really deep V front and back and either a falred skirt or fitted (These are all from pre-1930)


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(Our Dancing Daughters)

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If Vilma Bankey, Clara Bow, and Joan Crawford all wear fitted bodices so can I 😉 I like structure darnit!


but then I am also in love with the idea of a flared coat:



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Or a semi loose.. something:



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Oh yes, lots of these are from Gallica, I did indeed look through every edition of the magaine from 1920-1930.. Lots of patterns 🙂



The draft really didn’t need a huge amount of adjusting, I may just need to adjust some of my measuring 🙂



The back is lovely, it’s just too wide in the shoulders, and my mannequin does have a higher shoulder than me.


The front is a bit of a mess, I always have this trouble with drafting systems from this era though, so it’s no different. I can however use the changes made today to determine how to take measurements for the next run through.



So basically the same issues as with corsets I have scaled, with other patterns- I have a proportionally narrow torso. I am hour glass but I do not continue to taper out past my lower ribs.


But strangely I had to lower the waist at the side and raise it at the front. This is partly because I clipped the armscye and smoothed the excess towards the upper back and that then also spread down the side.


I also lowered the bust dart points, mainly because I think this mannequin has a very long shoulder to bust measure vs me. But it’s nice to see that this was a relatively easy remedy.


Overall? would recommend for someone who is used to these kinds of drafting tools.


The instructions are lengthy but a bit confusing only because the diagrams are super simple so it can be hard to work out immediate if you are looking at the the draft lines or the tool. But it was pretty easy to do once I got the hang of it. 🙂 Next step is to see if the tool will give the same corrected shape with the new measurements 🙂


The basque was very easy and worked really well for me for over a natural form shape 🙂


 

This project is super long term and matches my Elissa gown for length of time since starting!


However the skirt is finally getting the lace flounces! I decided to just go ahead and make this like the show gowns which is to not use my delicate vintage lace but a lovely net lace that I removed colour from 🙂 This has left the net ever so slightly pink and the flowers arctic white. The dress is a very creamy crepe and there will be opalescent organza (vintage- it’s not the super slick stuff now) and there will be some pearled lace appliques and ruched ribbon headings



Amazingly the lace was pretty much in the perfect lengths for full ruffles (3 times for each row)



So I started by gathering and quickly decided tiny pleats made more sense.



Not to sure how I managed to make the left side flatter, but the florist pins at the top of the skirt in the last image is where that side will be raised to before the lace is stitched down. I’d love to have used my vintage lace as it’s much wider but really I think the lace will look much better once the pins are out 🙂


So this skirt is feeling very mid 90s UK in style. Funnily enough 😉



The bodice is very much mid to late 90s UK too 😉 But you can see the organza is more subtle than more recent ones such as used in Wicked 🙂


So this has undergone many changes, a few piccies from when i first made and wore it:


 



This was the last iteration. Notice the wooden doors behind? Yeah that means this was before the fire. After the fire the bodice had a lot of soot damage so a lot of the hard work got undone.



Yes, when I was well I did a quickie trip to Europe and saw the show in Hamburg, London, And Copenhagen. And wore this frock each time. Long before it has become okay to cosplay at events btw. In fact this was just a few months before Rheumatoid Disease became part of my life.

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